The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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They Felt Again That They Were Lepers, The
Outcasts Of Society, And Must Not Contaminate Us With Their Touch.
A
Few cheerful words of inquiry from the physician, Dr. Trousseau,
addressed to individuals as to their particular cases, broke the
Embarrassment of this first meeting, and soon the crowd were
chatting and laughing just like any other crowd of thoughtless
Hawaiians, and with but few exceptions, these unfortunate exiles
showed no signs of the settled melancholy that would naturally be
looked for from people so hopelessly situated. Very happy were they
when spoken to, and quite ready to answer any questions. We saw
numbers whom we had known in years past, and who, having
disappeared, we had thought dead. One we had known as a
Representative, and a very intelligent one, too, in the Legislature
of 1868. On greeting him as an old-time acquaintance, he observed,
'Yes, we meet again - in this living grave!' He is a man of no
little consideration among the people, being entrusted by the Board
of Health with the care of the store which is kept here for the sale
of such goods as the people require. All do not appear to be lepers
who are leprous. We saw numbers who might pass along our streets
any day without being suspected of the taint. They had it, however,
in one way or another. Sometimes on the extremities only, eating
away the flesh and rotting the bones of the hands or feet; and
sometimes only appearing in black and indurated spots on the skin,
noticed only on a somewhat close examination. This last sort is
said to be the worst, as being most surely fatal and easiest
transmitted. We saw women who had the disease in this stage,
walking about, whom it was difficult to believe were lepers.
"If our sensibilities were shocked at the sight of the crowd of
lepers we had met at the beach, walking about in physical strength
and activity, how shall we describe our sensations in looking upon
these loathsome creatures in the hospital, in whom it was indeed
hard to recognise anything human? The rooms were cleanly kept and
well ventilated, but the atmosphere within was pervaded with the
sickening odour of the grave. At each end, squatted or lying prone
on their respective mats or mattresses, were the yet breathing
corpses of lepers in the last stages of various forms of the
disease, who glanced inquisitively at us for a moment out of their
ghoul-like eyes - those who were not already beyond seeing - and then
withdrew within their dreadful selves. Was there ever a more
pitiful sight?
"In one room we saw a sight that will ever remain fixed indelibly on
the tablets of memory. A little blue-eyed, flaxen haired child,
apparently three or four years old, a half-caste, that looked up at
us with an expression of timorous longing to be caressed and loved;
but alas, in its glassy eyes and transparent cheeks were the
unmistakable signs of the curse - the sin of the parents visited upon
the child!
"In another room was one - a mass of rotting flesh, with but little
semblance of humanity remaining - who was dying, and whose breath
came hurried and obstructed. A few hours at most, and his troubles
would be over, and his happy release arrive. There had been
fourteen deaths in the settlement during the previous fortnight. On
the day of our visit there were fifty-eight inmates of the
hospital."
Though the lifting of the veil of mystery which hangs over the death
valley of Molokai discloses some of the most woeful features of the
curse, it is a relief to know the worst, and that the poor leprous
outcasts in their "living grave" are not outside the pale of
humanity and a judicious philanthropy. All that can be done for
them is to encourage their remaining capacities for industry, and to
smooth, as far as is possible, the journey of death. The Hawaiian
Government is doing its best to "stamp out" the disease, and to
provide for the comfort of those who are isolated; and, with the
limited means at its disposal, has acted with an efficiency and
humanity worthy of the foremost of civilised countries.
LETTER XXVIII.
HILO. June 2nd.
Often since I finished my last letter has Hazael's reply to Elisha
occurred to me, "Is thy servant a dog, that he should do this
thing?" For in answer to people who have said, "I hope nothing will
induce you to attempt the ascent of Mauna Loa," I always said, "Oh,
dear, no! I should never dream of it;" or, "Nothing would persuade
me to think of it!"
This morning early, Mr. Green came in, on his way to Kilauea, to
which I was to accompany him, and on my casually remarking that I
envied him his further journey, he at once asked me to join him, and
I joyfully accepted the invitation! For, indeed, my heart has been
secretly set on going, and I have had to repeat to myself fifty
times a day, "no, I must not think of it, for it is impossible."
Mr. Green is going up well equipped with a tent, horses, a baggage
mule, and a servant, and is confident of being able to get a guide
and additional mules fifty miles from Hilo. I had to go to the
Union School examination where the Hilo world was gathered, but I
could think of nothing but the future; and I can hardly write sense,
the prospect of the next week is so exciting, and the time for
making preparations is so short. It is an adventurous trip anyhow,
and the sufferings which our predecessors have undergone, from
Commodore Wilkes downwards, make me anxious not to omit any
precaution. The distance which has to be travelled through an
uninhabited region, the height and total isolation of the summit,
the uncertainty as to the state of the crater, and the duration of
its activity, with the possibility of total failure owing to fog or
strong wind, combine to make our ascent an experimental trip.
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