The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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We went on again, the track now really dangerous from denudation and
slipperiness.
The rain came down, if possible, yet more heavily,
and coursed fiercely down each pali track. Hundreds of cascades
leapt from the cliffs, bringing down stones with a sharp rattling
sound. We crossed a bridge over one gulch, where the water was
thundering down in such volume that it seemed as if it must rend the
hard basalt of the palis. Then we reached the lofty top of the
great Hakalau gulch, the largest of all, with the double river, and
the ocean close to the ford. Mingling with the deep reverberations
of the surf, I heard the sharp crisp rush of a river, and of "a
river that has no bridge."
The dense foliage, and the exigencies of the steep track, which had
become very difficult, owing to the washing away of the soil,
prevented me from seeing anything till I got down. I found Deborah
speaking to a native, who was gesticulating very emphatically, and
pointing up the river. The roar was deafening, and the sight
terrific. Where there were two shallow streams a week ago, with a
house and good-sized piece of ground above their confluence, there
was now one spinning, rushing, chafing, foaming river, twice as wide
as the Clyde at Glasgow, the land was submerged, and, if I remember
correctly, the house only stood above the flood. And, most fearful
to look upon, the ocean, in three huge breakers, had come quite in,
and its mountains of white surge looked fearfully near the only
possible crossing. I entreated D. not to go on. She said we could
not go back, that the last gulch was already impassable, that
between the two there was no house in which we could sleep, that the
river had a good bottom, that the man thought if our horses were
strong we could cross now, but not later, etc. In short, she
overbore all opposition, and plunged in, calling to me, "spur, spur,
all the time."
Just as I went in, I took my knife and cut open the cloak which
contained the cocoanuts, one only remaining. Deborah's horse I knew
was strong, and shod, but my unshod and untried mare, what of her?
My soul and senses literally reeled among the dizzy horrors of the
wide, wild tide, but with an effort I regained sense and self-
possession, for we were in, and there was no turning. D., ahead,
screeched to me what I could not hear; she said afterwards it was
"spur, spur, and keep up the river;" the native was shrieking in
Hawaiian from the hinder shore, and waving to the right, but the
torrents of rain, the crash of the breakers, and the rush and hurry
of the river confused both sight and hearing. I saw D.'s great
horse carried off his legs, my mare, too, was swimming, and shortly
afterwards, between swimming, struggling, and floundering, we
reached what had been the junction of the two rivers, where there
was foothold, and the water was only up to the seat of the saddles.
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