The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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It Focussed All The Clamour I Have Heard On Hawaii And
Elsewhere, Exalted The "Almighty Dollar," And Was Savoury With The
Odour Of Coming Prosperity.
But he went far, very far; he has
aroused a cry among the natives "Hawaii for the Hawaiians," which,
Very likely, may breed mischief; for I am very sure that this brief
civilization has not quenched the "red fire" of race; and his hint
regarding the judicious disposal of the king in the event of
annexation, was felt by many of the more sober whites to be highly
impolitic.
The reciprocity treaty, very lucidly advocated by Mr. Carter, and
which means the cession of a lagoon with a portion of circumjacent
territory on this island, to the United States, for a Pacific naval
station, meets with more general favour as a safer measure; but the
natives are indisposed to bribe the great Republic to remit the
sugar duties by the surrender of a square inch of Hawaiian soil;
and, from a British point of view, I heartily sympathise with them.
Foreign, i.e. American, feeling is running high upon the subject.
People say that things are so bad that something must be done, and
it remains to be seen whether natives or foreigners can exercise the
strongest pressure on the king. I was unfavourably impressed in
both lectures by the way in which the natives and their interests
were quietly ignored, or as quietly subordinated to the sugar
interest.
It is never safe to forecast destiny; yet it seems most probable
that sooner or later in this century, the closing catastrophe must
come. The more thoughtful among the natives acquiesce helplessly
and patiently in their advancing fate; but the less intelligent, as
I had some opportunity of hearing at Hilo, are becoming restive and
irritable, and may drift into something worse if the knowledge of
the annexationist views of the foreigners is diffused among them.
Things are preparing for change, and I think that the Americans will
be wise in their generation if they let them ripen for many years to
come. Lunalilo has a broken constitution, and probably will not
live long. Kalakaua will probably succeed him, and "after him the
deluge," unless he leaves a suitable successor, for there are no
more chiefs with pre-eminent claims to the throne. The feeling
among the people is changing, the feudal instinct is disappearing,
the old despotic line of the Kamehamehas is extinct; and king-making
by paper ballots, introduced a few months ago, is an approximation
to president-making, with the canvassing, stumping, and wrangling,
incidental to such a contested election. Annexation, or peaceful
absorption, is the "manifest destiny" of the islands, with the
probable result lately most wittily prophesied by Mark Twain in the
New York Tribune, but it is impious and impolitic to hasten it.
Much as I like America, I shrink from the day when her universal
political corruption and her unrivalled political immorality shall
be naturalised on Hawaii-nei. . . . Sunday evening. The "Rolling
Moses" is in, and Sabbatic quiet has given place to general
excitement. People thought they heard her steaming in at 4 a.m.,
and got up in great agitation. Her guns fired during morning
service, and I doubt whether I or any other person heard another
word of the sermon. The first batch of letters for the hotel came,
but none for me; the second, none for me; and I had gone to my room
in cold despair, when some one tossed a large package in at my
verandah door, and to my infinite joy I found that one of my benign
fellow-passengers in the Nevada, had taken the responsibility of
getting my letters at San Francisco and forwarding them here. I
don't know how to be grateful enough to the good man. With such
late and good news, everything seems bright; and I have at once
decided to take the first schooner for the leeward group, and remain
four months longer on the islands.
I.L.B.
LETTER XX.
KOLOA, KAUAI, March 23rd.
I am spending a few days on some quaint old mission premises, and
the "guest house," where I am lodged, is a dobe house, with walls
two feet thick, and a very thick grass roof comes down six feet all
round to shade the windows. It is itself shaded by date palms and
algarobas, and is surrounded by hibiscus, oleanders, and the datura
arborea(?), which at night fill the air with sweetness. I am the
only guest, and the solitude of the guest house in which I am
writing is most refreshing to tired nerves. There is not a sound
but the rustling of trees.
The first event to record is that the trade winds have set in, and
though they may yet yield once or twice to the kona, they will soon
be firmly established for nine months. They are not soft airs as I
supposed, but riotous, rollicking breezes, which keep up a constant
clamour, blowing the trees about, slamming doors, taking liberties
with papers, making themselves heard and felt everywhere, flecking
the blue Pacific with foam, lowering the mercury three degrees,
bringing new health and vigour with them, - wholesome, cheery,
frolicsome north-easters. They brought me here from Oahu in
eighteen hours, for which I thank them heartily.
You will think me a Sybarite for howling about those eighteen hours
of running to leeward, when the residents of Kauai, if they have to
go to Honolulu in the intervals between the quarterly trips of the
Kilauea, have to spend from three to nine days in beating to
windward. These inter-island voyages of extreme detention, rolling
on a lazy swell in tropical heat, or beating for days against the
strong trades without shelter from the sun, and without anything
that could be called accommodation, were among the inevitable
hardships to which the missionaries' wives and children were exposed
in every migration for nearly forty years.
When I reached the wharf at Honolulu the sight of the Jenny, the
small sixty-ton schooner by which I was to travel, nearly made me
give up this pleasant plan, so small she looked, and so cumbered
with natives and their accompaniments of mats, dogs, and calabashes
of poi.
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