The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Consequently The Removal Of These Girls From
Evil And Impure Surroundings, The Placing Them Under The Happiest
Influences In Favour
Of purity and goodness, the forming and
fostering of industrious and housewifely habits, and the raising
them in their occupations
And amusements above those which are
natural to their race, are in themselves a noble, and in some
degree, a hopeful work, but it admits of neither pause nor
relaxation. Those who carry it on are truly "the lowest in the
meanest task," for they have undertaken not only the superintendence
of menial work (so called), but the work itself, in teaching by
example and instruction the womanly industries of home. They have
no society, until lately no regular Liturgical worship, and of
necessity a very infrequent celebration of the Holy Communion; and
they have undergone the trial which arose very naturally out of the
ecclesiastical relations of the American missionaries, of being
regarded as enemies, or at least dangerous interlopers, by the
excellent men who had long resided on the islands as Christian
teachers, and with whose views on such matters as dress and
recreation their own are somewhat at variance. In the first
instance, the habit they wore, their designations, the presence of
Miss Sellon, the fame of whose Ritualistic tendencies had reached
the islands, and their manifest connection with a section of the
English Church which is regarded here with peculiar disfavour,
roused a strongly antagonistic feeling regarding their work and the
drift of their religious teaching. They are not connected with what
is known at home as the "Honolulu Mission." {256}
I.L.B.
LETTER XVIII.
HAWAIIAN HOTEL, HONOLULU. March 20th.
Oahu, with its grey pinnacles, its deep valleys, its cool chasms,
its ruddy headlands, and volcanic cones, all clothed in green by the
recent rains, looked unspeakably lovely as we landed by sunrise in a
rose-flushed atmosphere, and Honolulu, shady, dew-bathed, and
brilliant with flowers, deserved its name, "The Paradise of the
Pacific." The hotel is pleasant, and Mrs. D.'s presence makes it
sweet and homelike; but in a very few days I have lost much of the
health I gained on Hawaii, and the "Rolling Moses" and the Rocky
Mountains can hardly come too soon. For Honolulu is truly a
metropolis, gay, hospitable, and restless, and this hotel
centralizes the restlessness. Visiting begins at breakfast time,
when it ends I know not, and receiving and making visits, court
festivities, entertainments given by the commissioners of the great
powers, riding parties, picnics, verandah parties, "sociables," and
luncheon and evening parties on board the ships of war, succeed each
other with frightful rapidity. This is all on the surface, but
beneath and better than this is a kindness which leaves no stranger
to a sense of loneliness, no want uncared for, and no sorrow
unalleviated. This, more than its beauty and its glorious climate,
makes Honolulu "Paradise" for the many who arrive here sick and
friendless. I notice that the people are very intimate with each
other, and generally address each other by their Christian names.
Very many are the descendants of the clerical and secular members of
the mission, and these, besides being naturally intimate, are
further drawn and held together by a society called "The Cousins'
Society," the objects of which are admirable. The people take an
intense interest in each other, and love each other unusually.
Possibly they may hate each other as cordially when occasion offers.
It is a charming town, and the society is delightful. I wish I were
well enough to enjoy it.
For people in the early stages of consumption this climate is
perfect, owing to its equability, as also for bronchial affections.
Unlike the health resorts of the Mediterranean, Algeria, Madeira,
and Florida, where great summer heats or an unhealthy season compel
half-cured invalids to depart in the spring, to return the next
winter with fresh colds to begin the half-cure process again, people
can live here until they are completely cured, as the climate is
never unhealthy, and never too hot. Though the regular trades,
which blow for nine months of the year, have not yet set in, and the
mercury stands at 80 degrees, there is no sultriness: a tremulous
sea-breeze and a mountain breeze fan the town, and the purple
nights, when the stars hang out like lamps, and the moon gives a
light which is almost golden, are cool and delicious. Roughly
computed, the annual mean temperature is 75 degrees 55', with a
divergence in either direction of only 7 degrees 55'. As a general
rule the temperature is cooler by four degrees for every thousand
feet of altitude, so that people can choose their climate to suit
themselves without leaving the islands.
I am gradually learning a little of the topography of this island
and of Honolulu, but the last is very intricate. The appearance of
Oahu from the sea is deceptive. It looks hardly larger than Arran,
but it is really forty-six miles long by twenty-five broad, and is
530 square miles in extent. Diamond Hill, or Leahi, is the most
prominent object south of the town, beyond the palm groves of
Waikiki. It is red and arid, except when, as now, it is verdure-
tinged by recent rains. Its height is 760 feet, and its crater
nearly as deep, but its cone is rapidly diminishing. Some years
ago, when the enormous quantity of thirty-six inches of rain fell in
one week, the degradation of both exterior and interior was
something incredible, and the same process is being carried on
slowly or rapidly at all times. The Punchbowl, immediately behind
Honolulu, is a crater of the same kind, but of yet more brilliant
colouring: so red is it indeed, that one might suppose that its
fires had but just died out. In 1786 an observer noted it as being
composed of high peaks; but atmospheric influences have reduced it
to the appearance of a single wasting tufa cone, similar to those
which stud the northern slopes of Mauna Kea.
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