The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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It Is A Fresh Item Of The Infinite Curse
Which Has Come Upon This Race, And With Molokai In Sight The
Hesperides Vanished, And I Ceased To Believe That The Fortunate
Islands Exist Here Or Elsewhere On This Weary Earth.
My destination was the industrial training and boarding school for
girls, taught and superintended by two English ladies of Miss
Sellon's sisterhood, Sisters Mary Clara and Phoebe; and I found it
buried under the shade of the finest candlenut trees I have yet
seen.
A rude wooden cross in front is a touching and fitting emblem
of the Saviour, for whom these pious women have sacrificed friends,
sympathy, and the social intercourse and amenities which are within
daily reach of our workers at home. The large house, which is
either plastered stone or adobe, contains the dormitories, visitors'
room, and oratory, and three houses at the back, all densely shaded,
are used as schoolroom, cook-house, laundry, and refectory. There
is a playground under some fine tamarind trees, and an adobe wall
encloses, without secluding, the whole. The visitors' room is about
twelve feet by eight feet, very bare, with a deal table and three
chairs in it, but it was vacant, and I crossed to the large, shady,
airy schoolroom, where I found the senior sister engaged in
teaching, while the junior was busy in the cook-house. These ladies
in eight years have never left Lahaina. Other people may think it
necessary to leave its broiling heat and seek health and recreation
on the mountains, but their work has left them no leisure, and their
zeal no desire, for a holiday. A very solid, careful English
education is given here, as well as a thorough training in all
housewifely arts, and in the more important matters of modest dress
and deportment, and propriety in language. There are thirty-seven
boarders, native and half-native, and mixed native and Chinese,
between the ages of four and eighteen. They provide their own
clothes, beds, and bedding, and I think pay forty dollars a year.
The capitation grant from Government for two years was 2325 dollars.
Sister Phoebe was my cicerone, and I owe her one of the pleasantest
days I have spent on the islands. The elder Sister is in middle
life, but though fragile-looking, has a pure complexion and a lovely
countenance; the younger is scarcely middle-aged, one of the
brightest, bonniest, sweetest-looking women I ever saw, with fun
dancing in her eyes and round the corners of her mouth; yet the
regnant expression on both faces was serenity, as though they had
attained to "the love which looketh kindly, and the wisdom which
looketh soberly on all things."
I never saw such a mirthful-looking set of girls. Some were cooking
the dinner, some ironing, others reading English aloud; but each
occupation seemed a pastime, and whenever they spoke to the Sisters
they clung about them as if they were their mothers. I heard them
read the Bible and an historical lesson, as well as play on a piano
and sing, and they wrote some very difficult passages from dictation
without any errors, and in a flowing, legible handwriting that I am
disposed to envy. Their accent and intonation were pleasing, and
there was a briskness and emulation about their style of answering
questions, rarely found in country schools with us, significant of
intelligence and good teaching. All but the younger girls spoke
English as fluently as Hawaiian. I cannot convey a notion of the
blitheness and independence of manner of these children. To say
that they were free and easy would be wrong; it was rather the
manner of very frolicsome daughters to very indulgent mothers or
aunts. It was a family manner rather than a school manner, and the
rule is obviously one of love. The Sisters are very wise in
adapting their discipline to the native character and circumstances.
The rigidity which is customary in similar institutions at home
would be out of place, as well as fatal here, and would ultimately
lead to a rebound of a most injurious description. Strict obedience
is of course required, but the rules are few and lenient, and there
is no more pressure of discipline than in a well-ordered family.
The native amusements generally are objectionable, but Hawaiians are
a dancing people, and will dance, or else indulge in less innocent
pastimes; so the Sisters have taught them various English dances,
and I never saw anything prettier or more graceful than their style
of dancing. There is no uniform dress. The girls wear pretty print
frocks, made in the English style, and several of them wore the
hibiscus in their shining hair. Some of the older girls were
beautiful in face as well as graceful in figure, but there was a
snaky undulation about their movements which I never saw among
Europeans. All looked bubbling over with fun and frolic, and there
was a refinement and intelligence about their expression which
contrasted favourably with that of the ordinary female face on the
islands.
There are two dormitories, excellently ventilated, with a four-post
bed, with mosquito-bars, for each girl, and the beds were covered
with those brilliant-coloured quilts in which the natives delight,
and in which they exercise considerable ingenuity as well as
individuality of taste. One Sister sleeps in each dormitory, and
these highly-educated and refined women have no place of retirement
except a very plain oratory; and having taken the vow of poverty,
they have of course no possessions, none of the books, pictures, and
knick-knacks wherewith others adorn their surroundings. Their whole
lives, with the exception of the time passed in the oratory, are
spent with the girls, and in visiting the afflicted at their homes,
and this through eight blazing years, with the mercury always at 80
degrees!
The Hawaiian women have no notions of virtue as we understand it,
and if there is to be any future for this race it must come through
a higher morality.
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