The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
- Page 64 of 244 - First - Home
A Blanket Is Agreeable At Night, But Not
Absolutely Necessary.
It is a truly delightful climate and mode of
living, with such an abundance of air and sunshine.
My health
improves daily, and I do not consider myself an invalid.
Between working, reading aloud, talking, riding, and "loafing," I
have very little time for letter writing; but I must tell you of a
delightful fern-hunting expedition on the margin of the forest that
I took yesterday, accompanied by Mr. Thompson and the two elder
boys. We rode in the mauka direction, outside cane ready for
cutting, with silvery tassels gleaming in the sun, till we reached
the verge of the forest, where an old trail was nearly obliterated
by a trailing matted grass four feet high, and thousands of woody
ferns, which conceal streams, holes, and pitfalls. When further
riding was impossible, we tethered our horses and proceeded on foot.
We were then 1,500 feet above the sea by the aneroid barometer, and
the increased coolness was perceptible. The mercury is about four
degrees lower for each 1,000 feet of ascent - rather more than this
indeed on the windward side of the islands. The forest would be
quite impenetrable were it not for the remains of wood-hauling
trails, which, though grown up to the height of my shoulders, are
still passable.
Underneath the green maze, invisible streams, deep down, made sweet
music, sweeter even than the gentle murmur of the cool breeze among
the trees. The forest on the volcano track, which I thought so
tropical and wonderful a short time ago, is nothing for beauty to
compare with this "garden of God." I wish I could describe it, but
cannot; and as you know only our pale, small-leaved trees, with
their uniform green, I cannot say that it is like this or that. The
first line of a hymn, "Oh, Paradise! oh, Paradise!" rings in my
brain, and the rustic exclamation we used to hear when we were
children, "Well, I never!" followed by innumerable notes of
admiration, seems to exhaust the whole vocabulary of wonderment.
The former cutting of some trees gives atmosphere, and the tumbled
nature of the ground shows everything to the best advantage. There
were openings over which huge candle-nuts, with their pea-green and
silver foliage, spread their giant arms, and the light played
through their branches on an infinite variety of ferns. There were
groves of bananas and plantains with shiny leaves 8 feet long, like
enormous hart's-tongue, the bright-leaved noni, the dark-leaved koa,
the mahogany of the Pacific; the great glossy-leaved Eugenia - a
forest tree as large as our largest elms; the small-leaved ohia, its
rose-crimson flowers making a glory in the forests, and its young
shoots of carmine red vying with the colouring of the New England
fall; and the strange lauhala hung its stiff drooping plumes, which
creak in the faintest breeze; and the superb breadfruit hung its
untempting fruit, and from spreading guavas we shook the ripe yellow
treasures, scooping out the inside, all juicy and crimson, to make
drinking cups of the rind; and there were trees that had surrendered
their own lives to a conquering army of vigorous parasites which had
clothed their skeletons with an unapproachable and indistinguishable
beauty, and over trees and parasites the tender tendrils of great
mauve morning glories trailed and wreathed themselves, and the
strong, strangling stems of the ie wound themselves round the tall
ohias, which supported their quaint yucca-like spikes of leaves
fifty feet from the ground.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 64 of 244
Words from 32814 to 33413
of 127766