The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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His Body Is About Twice The Size Of That Of A Very Large
Rat, Black And Furry Underneath, And With Red Foxy Fur On His Head
And Back.
His face is pointed, with a very black nose and prominent
black eyes, with a savage, remorseless expression.
His wings, when
extended, measure forty-eight inches across, and his flying powers
are prodigious. He snapped like a dog at first, but is now quite
tame, and devours quantities of dried figs, the only diet he will
eat.
We crossed the Equator in Long. 159 degrees 44', but in consequence
of the misty weather it was not till we reached Lat. 10 degrees 6'
N. that the Pole star, cold and pure, glistened far above the
horizon, and two hours later we saw the coruscating Pleiades, and
the starry belt of Orion, the blessed familiar constellations of
"auld lang syne," and a "breath of the cool north," the first I have
felt for five months, fanned the tropic night and the calm silvery
Pacific. From that time we have been indifferent to our crawling
pace, except for the sick man's sake. The days dawn in rose colour
and die in gold, and through their long hours a sea of delicious
blue shimmers beneath the sun, so soft, so blue, so dreamlike, an
ocean worthy of its name, the enchanted region of perpetual calm,
and an endless summer. Far off, for many an azure league, rims of
rock, fringed with the graceful coco palm, girdle still lagoons, and
are themselves encircled by coral reefs on which the ocean breaks
all the year in broad drifts of foam. Myriads of flying fish and a
few dolphins and Portuguese men-of-war flash or float through the
scarcely undulating water. But we look in vain for the "sails of
silk and ropes of sendal," which are alone appropriate to this
dream-world. The Pacific in this region is an indolent blue
expanse, pure and lonely, an almost untraversed sea. We revel in
these tropic days of transcendent glory, in the balmy breath which
just stirs the dreamy blue, in the brief, fierce crimson sunsets, in
the soft splendour of the nights, when the moon and stars hang like
lamps out of a lofty and distant vault, and in the pearly
crystalline dawns, when the sun rising through a veil of rose and
gold "rejoices as a giant to run his course," and brightens by no
"pale gradations" into the "perfect day."
P.S. - To-morrow morning we expect to sight land. In spite of minor
evils, our voyage has been a singularly pleasant one. The condition
of the ship and her machinery warrants the strongest condemnation,
but her discipline is admirable, and so are many of her regulations,
and we might have had a much more disagreeable voyage in a better
ship. Captain Blethen is beyond all praise, and so is the chief
engineer, whose duties are incessant and most harassing, owing to
the critical state of the engines. The Nevada now presents a
grotesque appearance, for within the last few hours she has received
such an added list to port that her starboard wheel looks nearly out
of the water.
I.L.B.
LETTER II.
HAWAIIAN HOTEL, HONOLULU, Jan. 26th.
Yesterday morning at 6.30 I was aroused by the news that "The
Islands" were in sight. Oahu in the distance, a group of grey,
barren peaks rising verdureless out of the lonely sea, was not an
exception to the rule that the first sight of land is a
disappointment. Owing to the clear atmosphere, we seemed only five
miles off, but in reality we were twenty, and the land improved as
we neared it. It was the fiercest day we had had, the deck was
almost too hot to stand upon, the sea and sky were both
magnificently blue, and the unveiled sun turned every minute ripple
into a diamond flash. As we approached, the island changed its
character. There were lofty peaks, truly - grey and red, sun-
scorched and wind-bleached, glowing here and there with traces of
their fiery origin; but they were cleft by deep chasms and ravines
of cool shadow and entrancing green, and falling water streaked
their sides - a most welcome vision after eleven months of the desert
sea and the dusty browns of Australia and New Zealand. Nearer yet,
and the coast line came into sight, fringed by the feathery cocoanut
tree of the tropics, and marked by a long line of surf. The grand
promontory of Diamond Head, its fiery sides now softened by a haze
of green, terminated the wavy line of palms; then the Punchbowl, a
very perfect extinct crater, brilliant with every shade of red
volcanic ash, blazed against the green skirts of the mountains. We
were close to the coral reef before the cry, "There's Honolulu!"
made us aware of the proximity of the capital of the island kingdom,
and then, indeed, its existence had almost to be taken upon trust,
for besides the lovely wooden and grass huts, with deep verandahs,
which nestled under palms and bananas on soft green sward, margined
by the bright sea sand, only two church spires and a few grey roofs
appeared above the trees.
We were just outside the reef, and near enough to hear that deep
sound of the surf which, through the ever serene summer years
girdles the Hawaiian Islands with perpetual thunder, before the
pilot glided alongside, bringing the news which Mark Twain had
prepared us to receive with interest, that "Prince Bill" had been
unanimously elected to the throne. The surf ran white and pure over
the environing coral reef, and as we passed through the narrow
channel, we almost saw the coral forests deep down under the
Nevada's keel; the coral fishers plied their graceful trade; canoes
with outriggers rode the combers, and glided with inconceivable
rapidity round our ship; amphibious brown beings sported in the
transparent waves; and within the reef lay a calm surface of water
of a wonderful blue, entered by a narrow, intricate passage of the
deepest indigo.
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