The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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It Was Nothing Else Than A RIVER OF FIRE
From 200 To 800 Feet Wide And Twenty Deep, With A
SPEED VARYING FROM
TEN TO TWENTY-FIVE MILES AN HOUR!" This same intelligent observer
noticed as a peculiarity of the
Spouting that the lava was ejected
by a ROTARY MOTION, and in the air both lava and stones always
rotated TOWARDS THE SOUTH. At Kilauea I noticed that the lava was
ejected in a southerly direction. From the scene of these fire
fountains, whose united length was about a mile, the river in its
rush to the sea divided itself into four streams, between which it
shut up men and beasts. One stream hurried to the sea in four
hours, but the others took two days to travel ten miles. The
aggregate width was a mile and a half. Where it entered the sea it
extended the coast-line half a mile, but this worthless accession to
Hawaiian acreage was dearly purchased by the loss, for ages at
least, of 4000 acres of valuable pasture land, and a much larger
quantity of magnificent forest. The whole south-east shore of
Hawaii sank from four to six feet, which involved the destruction of
several hamlets and the beautiful fringe of cocoa-nut trees. Though
the region was very thinly peopled, 200 houses and 100 lives were
sacrificed in this week of horrors, and from the reeling mountains,
the uplifted ocean, and the fiery inundation, the terrified
survivors fled into Hilo, each with a tale of woe and loss. The
number of shocks of earthquake counted was 2000 in two weeks, an
average of 140 a day; but on the other side of the island the number
was incalculable.
I.L.B.
LETTER XIII.
HILO. HAWAII. February.
The quiet, dreamy, afternoon existence of Hilo is disturbed. Two
days ago an official intimation was received that the American
Government had placed the U.S. ironclad "Benicia" at the disposal of
King Lunalilo for a cruise round Hawaii, and that he would arrive
here the following morning with Admiral Pennock and the U.S.
generals Scholfield and Alexander.
Now this monarchy is no longer an old-time chieftaincy, made up of
calabashes and poi, feather-cloaks, kahilis, and a little fuss, but
has a civilized constitutional king, the equal of Queen Victoria, a
civil list, etc., and though Lunalilo comes here trying to be a
private individual and to rest from Hookupus, state entertainments,
and privy councils, he brings with him a royal chamberlain and an
adjutant-general in attendance. So the good people of Hilo have
been decorating their houses anew with ferns and flowers, furbishing
up their clothes, and holding mysterious consultations regarding
etiquette and entertainments, just as if royalty were about to drop
down in similar fashion on Bude or Tobermory. There were amusing
attempts to bring about a practical reconciliation between the free-
and-easiness of Republican notions and the respect due to a
sovereign who reigns by "the will of the people" as well as by "the
grace of God," but eventually the tact of the king made everything
go smoothly.
At eight yesterday morning the "Benicia" anchored inside the reef,
and Hilo blossomed into a most striking display of bunting; the
Hawaiian colours, eight blue, red and white stripes, with the
English union in the corner, and the flaunting flag of America being
predominant. My heart warmed towards our own flag as the soft
breeze lifted its rich folds among the glories of the tropical
trees. Indeed, bunting to my mind never looked so well as when
floating and fainting among cocoa-nut palms and all the shining
greenery of Hilo, in the sunshine of a radiant morning. It was
bright and warm, but the cool bulk of Mauna Kea, literally covered
with snow, looked down as winter upon summer. Natives galloped in
from all quarters, brightly dressed, wreathed, and garlanded,
delighted in their hearts at the attention paid to their sovereign
by a great foreign power, though they had been very averse to this
journey, from a strange but prevalent idea that once on board a U.S.
ship the king would be kidnapped and conveyed to America.
Lieut.-Governor Lyman and Mr. Severance, the sheriff, went out to
the "Benicia," and the king landed at ten o'clock, being "graciously
pleased" to accept the Governor's house as his residence during his
visit. The American officers, naval and military, were received by
the same loud, hospitable old whaling captain who entertained the
Duke of Edinburgh some years ago here, and to judge from the
hilarious sounds which came down the road from his house, they had
what they would call "a good time." I had seen Lunalilo in state at
Honolulu, but it was much more interesting to see him here, and this
royalty is interesting in itself, as a thing on sufferance, standing
between this helpless nationality and its absorption by America.
The king is a very fine-looking man of thirty-eight, tall, well
formed, broad-chested, with his head well set on his shoulders, and
his feet and hands small. His appearance is decidedly commanding
and aristocratic: he is certainly handsome even according to our
notions. He has a fine open brow, significant at once of brains and
straightforwardness, a straight proportionate nose, and a good
mouth. The slight tendency to Polynesian overfulness about his lips
is concealed by a well-shaped moustache. He wears whiskers cut in
the English fashion. His eyes are large, dark-brown of course, and
equally of course, he has a superb set of teeth. Owing to a slight
fulness of the lower eyelid, which Queen Emma also has, his eyes
have a singularly melancholy expression, very alien, I believe, to
his character. He is remarkably gentlemanly looking, and has the
grace of movement which seems usual with Hawaiians. When he landed
he wore a dark morning suit and a black felt hat.
As soon as he stepped on shore, the natives, who were in crowds on
the beach, cheered, yelled, and waved their hats and handkerchiefs,
and then a procession was formed, or rather formed itself, to escort
him to the governor's house.
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