The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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They Have Only Just Emerged From A
Bloody And Sensual Heathenism, And To The Instincts And Volatility
Of These Dark Polynesian Races, The Restraining Influences Of The
Gospel Are Far More Severe Than To Our Cold, Unimpulsive Northern
Natures.
The greatest of their disadvantages has been that some of
the vilest of the whites who roamed the Pacific
Had settled on the
islands before the arrival of the Christian teachers, dragging the
people down to even lower depths of depravity than those of
heathenism, and that there are still resident foreigners who corrupt
and destroy them.
I must tell you a story which the venerable Mrs. Lyman told me
yesterday. In 1825, five years after the first missionaries landed,
Kapiolani, a female alii of high rank, while living at Kaiwaaloa
(where Captain Cook was murdered), became a Christian. Grieving for
her people, most of whom still feared to anger Pele, she announced
that it was her intention to visit Kilauea, and dare the fearful
goddess to do her worst. Her husband and many others tried to
dissuade her, but she was resolute, and taking with her a large
retinue, she took a journey of one hundred miles, mostly on foot,
over the rugged lava, till she arrived near the crater. There a
priestess of Pele met her, threatened her with the displeasure of
the goddess if she persisted in her hostile errand, and prophesied
that she and her followers would perish miserably. Then, as now,
ohelo berries grew profusely round the terminal wall of Kilauea, and
there, as elsewhere, were sacred to Pele, no one daring to eat of
them till he had first offered some of them to the divinity. It was
usual on arriving at the crater to break a branch covered with
berries, and turning the face to the pit of fire, to throw half the
branch over the precipice, saying, "Pele, here are your ohelos. I
offer some to you, some I also eat," after which the natives partook
of them freely. Kapiolani gathered and eat them without this
formula, after which she and her company of eighty persons descended
to the black edge of Hale-mau-mau. There, in full view of the fiery
pit, she thus addressed her followers: - "Jehovah is my God. He
kindled these fires. I fear not Pele. If I perish by the anger of
Pele, then you may fear the power of Pele; but if I trust in
Jehovah, and he should save me from the wrath of Pele, when I break
through her tabus, then you must fear and serve the Lord Jehovah.
All the Gods of Hawaii are vain! Great is Jehovah's goodness in
sending teachers to turn us from these vanities to the living God
and the way of righteousness!" Then they sang a hymn. I can fancy
the strange procession winding its backward way over the cracked,
hot, lava sea, the robust belief of the princess hardly sustaining
the limping faith of her followers, whose fears would not be laid to
rest until they reached the crater's rim without any signs of the
pursuit of an avenging deity. It was more sublime than Elijah's
appeal on the soft, green slopes of Carmel, but the popular belief
in the Goddess of the Volcano survived this flagrant instance of her
incapacity, and only died out many years afterwards.
Besides these interesting reminiscences, I have been hearing most
thrilling stories from Mrs. Lyman and Mr. Coan of volcanoes,
earthquakes, and tidal waves. Told by eye-witnesses, and on the
very spot where the incidents occurred, they make a profound, and, I
fear, an incommunicable impression. I look on these venerable
people as I should on people who had seen the Deluge, or the burial
of Pompeii, and wonder that they eat and dress and live like other
mortals! For they have felt the perpetual shudder of earthquakes,
and their eyes, which look so calm and kind, have seen the inflowing
of huge tidal waves, the dull red glow of lava streams, and the
leaping of fire cataracts into deep-lying pools, burning them dry in
a night time. There were years in which there was no day in which
the smoke of underground furnaces was out of their sight, or night
which was not lurid with flames. Once they traced a river of lava
burrowing its way 1500 feet below the surface, and saw it emerge,
break over a precipice, and fall hissing into the ocean. Once from
their highest mountain a pillar of fire 200 feet in diameter lifted
itself for three weeks 1000 feet into the air, making night day, for
a hundred miles round, and leaving as its monument a cone a mile in
circumference. We see a clothed and finished earth; they see the
building of an island, layer on layer, hill on hill, the naked and
deformed product of the melting, forging, and welding, which go on
perpetually in the crater of Kilauea.
I could fill many sheets with what I have heard, but must content
myself with telling you very little. In 1855 the fourth recorded
eruption of Mauna Loa occurred. The lava flowed directly Hilo-
wards, and for several months, spreading through the dense forests
which belt the mountain, crept slowly shorewards, threatening this
beautiful portion of Hawaii with the fate of the Cities of the
Plain. Mr. C. made several visits to the eruption, and on each
return the simple people asked him how much longer it would last.
For five months they watched the inundation, which came a little
nearer every day. "Should they fly or not? Would their beautiful
homes become a waste of jagged lava and black sand, like the
neighbouring district of Puna, once as fair as Hilo?" Such
questions suggested themselves as they nightly watched the nearing
glare, till the fiery waves met with obstacles which piled them up
in hillocks, eight miles from Hilo, and the suspense was over. Only
gigantic causes can account for the gigantic phenomena of this lava-
flow.
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