The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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But It Is A Truly Spasmodic
Arrangement, Singularly Independent Of Human Control, And I Have Not
The Slightest Doubt That
The reason why Mr. Gilman obligingly
remained in the vicinity was, lest I should be scalded or blown to
atoms
By a sudden freak of Kilauea, though I don't see that he was
capable of preventing either catastrophe! A slight grass shed has
been built over a sulphur steam crack, and within this there is a
deep box with a sliding lid and a hole for the throat, and the
victim is supposed to sit in this and be steamed. But on this
occasion the temperature was so high, that my hand, which I unwisely
experimented upon, was immediately peeled. In order not to wound
Mr. Gilman's feelings, which are evidently sensitive on the subject
of this irresponsible contrivance, I remained the prescribed time
within the shed, and then managed to limp a little less, and go with
him to what are called the Sulphur Banks, on which sulphurous vapour
is perpetually depositing the most exquisite acicular sulphur
crystals; these, as they aggregate, take entrancing forms, like the
featherwork produced by the "frost-fall" in Colorado, but, like it,
they perish with a touch, and can only be seen in the wonderful
laboratory where they are formed.
In addition to the natives before mentioned, there is an old man
here who has been a bullock-hunter on Hawaii for forty years, and
knows the island thoroughly. In common with all the residents I
have seen, he takes an intense interest in volcanic phenomena, and
has just been giving us a thrilling account of the great eruption in
1868, when beautiful Hilo was threatened with destruction. Three
weeks ago, he says, a profound hush fell on Kilauea, and the summit
crater of Mauna Loa became active, and amidst throbbings, rumblings,
and earthquakes, broke into such magnificence that the light was
visible 100 miles at sea, a burning mountain 13,750 feet high! The
fires after two days died out as suddenly, and from here we can see
the great dome-like top, snow-capped under the stars, serene in an
eternal winter.
I.L.B.
LETTER VI.
HILO, HAWAII, Feb. 3.
My plans are quite overturned. I was to have ridden with the native
mail-carrier to the north of the island to take the steamer for
Honolulu, but there are freshets in the gulches on the road, making
the ride unsafe. There is no steamer from Hilo for three weeks, and
in the meantime Mr. and Mrs. S. have kindly consented to receive me
as a boarder; and I find the people, scenery, and life so charming,
that I only regret my detention on Mrs. Dexter's account. I am
already rested from the great volcano trip.
We left Kilauea at seven in the morning of the 1st Feb. in a pouring
rain. The natives decorated us with leis of turquoise and coral
berries, and of crimson and yellow ohia blossoms.
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