I never can believe that they are not the enemies
of man; and I lay down on the transom, not to sleep, however, for it
seemed essential to keep watch on the proceedings of these
formidable vermin.
The grotesqueness of the arrangements of the berths and their
occupants grew on me during the night, and the climax was put upon
it when a gentleman coming down in the early morning asked me if I
knew that I was using the Governor of Maui's head for a footstool,
this portly native "Excellency" being in profound slumber on the
forward part of the transom. This diagram represents one side of
the saloon and the "happy family" of English, Chinamen, Hawaiians,
and Americans:
Governor Lyman. Miss Karpe. Miss - -.
Afong. Vacant. Miss - -.
Governor Nahaolelua. Myself. An Hawaiian.
I noticed, too, that there were very few trunks and portmanteaus,
but that the after end of the saloon was heaped with Mexican saddles
and saddlebags, which I learned too late were the essential gear of
every traveller on Hawaii.
At five this morning we were at anchor in the roads of Lahaina, the
chief village on the mountainous island of Maui. This place is very
beautiful from the sea, for beyond the blue water and the foamy reef
the eye rests gratefully on a picturesque collection of low, one-
storied, thatched houses, many of frame, painted white; others of
grass, but all with deep, cool verandahs, half hidden among palms,
bananas, kukuis, breadfruit, and mangoes, dark groves against gentle
slopes behind, covered with sugar-cane of a bright pea-green.
