The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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I Cannot Testify Concerning The Mainmast, Though It
Certainly Does Comport Itself Like No Other Mainmast I Ever Saw; But
The Other Statements And Many More Which Might Be Added, Are, I
Believe, Substantially Correct.
That the caulking of the deck was
in evil case we very soon had proof, for during heavy rain above, it
was a smart shower in the saloon and state rooms, keeping four
stewards employed with buckets and swabs, and compelling us to dine
in waterproofs and rubber shoes.
In this dilapidated condition, when two days out from Auckland, we
encountered a revolving South Sea hurricane, succinctly entered in
the log of the day as "Encountered a very severe hurricane with a
very heavy sea." It began at eight in the morning, and never spent
its fury till nine at night, and the wind changed its direction
eleven times. The Nevada left Auckland two feet deeper in the water
than she ought to have been, and laboured heavily. Seas struck her
under the guards with a heavy, explosive thud, and she groaned and
strained as if she would part asunder. It was a long weird day. We
held no communication with each other, or with those who could form
any rational estimate of the probabilities of our destiny; no
officials appeared; the ordinary invariable routine of the steward
department was suspended without notice; the sounds were tremendous,
and a hot lurid obscurity filled the atmosphere. Soon after four
the clamour increased, and the shock of a sea blowing up a part of
the fore-guards made the groaning fabric reel and shiver throughout
her whole huge bulk. At that time, by common consent, we assembled
in the deck-house, which had windows looking in all directions, and
sat there for five hours. Very few words were spoken, and very
little fear was felt. We understood by intuition that if our crazy
engines failed at any moment to keep the ship's head to the sea, her
destruction would not occupy half-an-hour. It was all palpable.
There was nothing which the most experienced seaman could explain to
the merest novice. We hoped for the best, and there was no use in
speaking about the worst. Nor, indeed, was speech possible, unless
a human voice could have outshrieked the hurricane.
In this deck-house the strainings, sunderings, and groanings were
hardly audible, or rather were overpowered by a sound which, in
thirteen months' experience of the sea in all weathers, I have never
heard, and hope never to hear again, unless in a staunch ship, one
loud, awful, undying shriek, mingled with a prolonged relentless
hiss. No gathering strength, no languid fainting into momentary
lulls, but one protracted gigantic scream. And this was not the
whistle of wind through cordage, but the actual sound of air
travelling with tremendous velocity, carrying with it minute
particles of water. Nor was the sea running mountains high, for the
hurricane kept it down. Indeed during those fierce hours no sea was
visible, for the whole surface was caught up and carried furiously
into the air, like snow-drift on the prairies, sibilant, relentless.
There was profound quiet on deck, the little life which existed
being concentrated near the bow, where the captain was either lashed
to the foremast, or in shelter in the pilot-house. Never a soul
appeared on deck, the force of the hurricane being such that for
four hours any man would have been carried off his feet. Through
the swift strange evening our hopes rested on the engine, and amidst
the uproar and din, and drifting spray, and shocks of pitiless seas,
there was a sublime repose in the spectacle of the huge walking
beams, alternately rising and falling, slowly, calmly, regularly, as
if the Nevada were on a holiday trip within the Golden Gate. At
eight in the evening we could hear each other speak, and a little
later, through the great masses of hissing drift we discerned black
water. At nine Captain Blethen appeared, smoking a cigar with
nonchalance, and told us that the hurricane had nearly boxed the
compass, and had been the most severe he had known for seventeen
years. This grand old man, nearly the oldest captain in the
Pacific, won our respect and confidence from the first, and his
quiet and masterly handling of this dilapidated old ship is beyond
all praise.
When the strain of apprehension was mitigated, we became aware that
we had not had anything to eat since breakfast, a clean sweep having
been made, not only of the lunch, but of all the glass in the racks
above it; but all requests to the stewards were insufficient to
procure even biscuits, and at eleven we retired supperless to bed,
amidst a confusion of awful sounds, and were deprived of lights as
well as food. When we asked for food or light, and made weak
appeals on the ground of faintness, the one steward who seemed to
dawdle about for the sole purpose of making himself disagreeable,
always replied, "You can't get anything, the stewards are on duty."
We were not accustomed to recognize that stewards had any other duty
than that of feeding the passengers, but under the circumstances we
meekly acquiesced. We were allowed to know that a part of the
foreguards had been carried way, and that iron stanchions four
inches thick had been gnarled and twisted like candy sticks, and the
constant falling of the saloon casing of the mainmast, showed
something wrong there. A heavy clang, heard at intervals by day and
night, aroused some suspicions as to more serious damage, and these
were afterwards confirmed. As the wind fell the sea rose, and for
some hours realized every description I have read of the majesty and
magnitude of the rollers of the South Pacific.
The day after the hurricane something went wrong with the engines,
and we were stationary for an hour. We all felt thankful that this
derangement which would have jeopardised or sacrificed sixty lives,
was then only a slight detention on a summer sea.
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