The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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There
Are 200,000 Acres Of Productive Soil On The Islands, Of Which Only A
Fifteenth Is Under Cultivation, And Of This Large Area 150,000 Is
Said To Be Specially Adapted For Sugar Culture.
Herein is a
prospective Utopia, and people are always dreaming of the sugar-
growing capacities of the belt of
Rich disintegrated lava which
slopes upwards from the sea to the bases of the mountains.
Hitherto, sugar growing has been a very disastrous speculation, and
few of the planters at present do more than keep their heads above
water.
Were labour plentiful and the duties removed, fortunes might be
made; for the soil yields on an average about three times as much as
that of the State of Louisiana. Two and a half tons to the acre is
a common yield, five tons, a frequent one, and instances are known
of the slowly matured cane of a high altitude yielding as much as
seven tons! The magnificent climate makes it a very easy crop to
grow. There is no brief harvest time with its rush, hurry, and
frantic demand for labour, nor frost to render necessary the hasty
cutting of an immature crop. The same number of hands is kept on
all the year round. The planters can plant pretty much when they
please, or not plant at all, for two or three years, the only
difference in the latter case being that the rattoons which spring
up after the cutting of the former crop are smaller in bulk. They
can cut when they please, whether the cane be tasselled or not, and
they can plant, cut, and grind at one time!
It is a beautiful crop in any stage of growth, especially in the
tasselled stage. Every part of it is useful - the cane pre-
eminently - the leaves as food for horses and mules, and the tassels
for making hats. Here and elsewhere there is a plate of cut cane
always within reach, and the children chew it incessantly. I fear
you will be tired of sugar, but I find it more interesting than the
wool and mutton of Victoria and New Zealand, and it is a most
important item of the wealth of this toy kingdom, which last year
exported 16,995,402 lbs. of sugar and 192,105 gallons of molasses.
{121} With regard to molasses, the Government prohibits the
manufacture of rum, so the planters are deprived of a fruitful
source of profit. It is really difficult to tear myself from the
subject of sugar, for I see the cane waving in the sun while I
write, and hear the busy hum of the crushing-mill.
I.L.B.
LETTER IX.
ONOMEA, HAWAII.
This is such a pleasant house and household, Mrs. A. is as bright as
though she were not an invalid, and her room, except at meals, is
the gathering-place of the family. The four boys are bright,
intelligent beings, out of doors, barefooted, all day, and with a
passion for horses, of which their father possesses about thirty.
The youngest, Ephy, is the brightest child for three years old that
I ever saw, but absolutely crazy about horses and mules. He talks
of little else, and is constantly asking me to draw horses on his
slate. He is a merry, audacious little creature, but came in this
evening quite subdued. The sun was setting gloriously behind the
forest-covered slopes, flooding the violet distances with a haze of
gold, and, in a low voice, he said, "I've seen God."
There is the usual Chinese cook, who cooks and waits and looks good-
natured, and of course has his own horse, and his wife, a most
minute Chinese woman, comes in and attends to the rooms and to Mrs.
A., and sews and mends. She wears her native dress - a large, stiff,
flat cane hat, like a tray, fastened firmly on or to her head; a
scanty loose frock of blue denim down to her knees, wide trousers of
the same down to her ancles, and slippers. Her hair is knotted up;
she always wears silver armlets, and would not be seen without the
hat for anything. There is not a bell in this or any house on the
islands, and the bother of servants is hardly known, for the
Chinamen do their work like automatons, and disappear at sunset. In
a land where there are no carpets, no fires, no dust, no hot water
needed, no windows to open and shut - for they are always open - no
further service is really required. It is a simple arcadian life,
and people live more happily than any that I have seen elsewhere.
It is very cheerful to live among people whose faces are not soured
by the east wind, or wrinkled by the worrying effort to "keep up
appearances," which deceive nobody; who have no formal visiting, but
real sociability; who regard the light manual labour of domestic
life as a pleasure, not a thing to be ashamed of; who are contented
with their circumstances, and have leisure to be kind, cultured, and
agreeable; and who live so tastefully, though simply, that they can
at any time ask a passing stranger to occupy the simple guest
chamber, or share the simple meal, without any of the soul-harassing
preparations which often make the exercise of hospitality a thing of
terror to people in the same circumstances at home.
People will ask you, "What is the food?" We have everywhere bread
and biscuit made of California flour, griddle cakes with molasses,
and often cracked wheat, butter not very good, sweet potatoes,
boiled kalo, Irish potatoes, and poi. I have not seen fish on any
table except at the Honolulu Hotel, or any meat but beef, which is
hard and dry as compared with ours. We have China or Japan tea, and
island coffee. Honolulu is the only place in which intoxicants are
allowed to be sold; and I have not seen beer, wine, or spirits in
any house.
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