The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Sand-hills, smooth and red; sand plains, rippled,
whites and glaring; sand drifts shifting; sand clouds whirling; sand
in your eyes, nose, and mouth; sand stinging your face like pin
points; sand hiding even your horse's ears; sand rippling like
waves, hissing like spin-drift, malignant, venomous!
You can only
open one eye at a time for a wink at where you are going. Looking
down upon it from Heiku, you can see nothing all day but the dense
brown clouds of a perpetual sand-storm.
My charming hostess and her husband made Heiku so fascinating, that
I only quitted it hoping to return. The object which usually
attracts strangers to Maui is the great dead volcano of Haleakala,
"The house of the sun," and I was fortunate in all the circumstances
of my ascent. My host at Heiku provided me with a horse and native
attendant, and I rode over the evening before to the house of his
brother, Mr. J. Alexander, who accompanied me, and his intelligent
and cultured society was one of the pleasures of the day.
People usually go up in the afternoon, camp near the summit, light a
fire, are devoured by fleas, roast and freeze alternately till
morning, and get up to see the grand spectacle of the sunrise, but I
think our plan preferable, of leaving at two in the morning. The
moon had set. It was densely dark, and it was raining on one side
of the road, though quite fine on the other.
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