The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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The Lady Principal Of The Government School Is A
Handsome, Talented Vermont Girl, And Besides Being An Immense
Favourite, Well Deserves Her Unusual And Lucrative Position.
There are hardly any young ladies, and very few young men, but
plenty of rosy, blooming children, who run about barefoot all the
year.
Besides the Hilo residents, there are some planters' families
within seven miles, who come in to sewing circles, church, etc.
There is a small class of reprobate white men who have ostracized
themselves by means of drink and bad morals, and are a curse to the
natives. The half whites, among whom "Bill Ragsdale" is the leading
spirit, are not numerous. Hilo has no carriage roads and no
carriages: every one must ride or travel in a litter. People are
very kind to each other. Horses, dresses, patterns, books, and
articles of domestic use, are lent and borrowed continually. The
smallness of the society and the close proximity are too much like a
ship. People know everything about the details of each other's
daily life, income, and expenditure, and the day's doings of each
member of the little circle are matters for conversation. Indeed,
were it not for the volcano and its doings, conversation might
degenerate into gossip. There is an immense deal of personal talk;
the wonder is that there is so little ill-nature. Not only is what
everybody does here common property, but the sayings, doings,
goings, comings, and purchases of every one in all the other islands
are common property also, made so by letters and oral communication.
It is all very amusing, and on the whole very kindly, and human
interests are always interesting; but it has its perilous side.
They are very kind to each other. There is no distress which is not
alleviated. There is no nurse, and in cases of sickness the ladies
take it by turns to wait on the sufferer by day and night for weeks,
and even months. Such inevitable mutual dependence of course
promotes friendliness.
The foreigners live very simply. The eating-rooms are used solely
for eating, the "parlours" are always cheerful and tasteful, and the
bedrooms very pretty, adorned with all manner of knick-knacks made
by the ladies, who are indescribably deft with their fingers. Light
Manilla matting is used instead of carpets. A Chinese man-cook, who
leaves at seven in the evening, is the only servant, except in one
or two cases, where, as here, a native woman condescends to come in
during the day as a nurse. In the morning the ladies, in their
fresh pretty wrappers and ruffled white aprons, sweep and dust the
rooms, and I never saw women look more truly graceful and refined
than they do, when engaged in the plain prose of these domestic
duties. They make all their own dresses, and when any lady is busy
and wants a dress in a hurry, two or three of them meet and make it
for her. I never saw people live such easy pleasant lives. They
have such good health, for one thing, partly no doubt because their
domestic duties give them wholesome exercise without pressing upon
them. They have abounding leisure for reading, music, choir
practising, drawing, fern-printing, fancy work, picnics, riding
parties, and enjoy sociability thoroughly. They usually ride in
dainty bloomer costumes, even when they don't ride astride. All the
houses are pretty, and it takes little to make them so in this
climate. One novel fashion is to decorate the walls with festoons
of the beautiful fern Microlepia tenuifolia, which are renewed as
soon as they fade, and every room is adorned with a profusion of
bouquets, which are easily obtained where flowers bloom all the
year. Many of the residents possess valuable libraries, and these,
with cabinets of minerals, volcanic specimens, shells, and coral,
with weapons, calabashes, ornaments, and cloth of native
manufacture, almost furnish a room in themselves. Some of the
volcanic specimens and the coral are of almost inestimable value, as
well as of exquisite beauty.
The gentlemen don't seem to have near so much occupation as the
ladies. There are two stores on the beach, and at these and at the
Court-house they aggregate, for lack of club-house and exchange.
Business is not here a synonym for hurry, and official duties are
light; so light, that in these morning hours I see the governor, the
sheriff, and the judge, with three other gentlemen, playing an
interminable croquet game on the Court-house lawn. They purvey
gossip for the ladies, and how much they invent, and how much they
only circulate can never be known!
There is a large native population in the village, along the beach,
and on the heights above the Wailuku River. Frame houses with
lattices, and grass houses with deep verandahs, peep out everywhere
from among the mangoes and bananas. The governess of Hawaii, the
Princess Keelikalani, has a house on the beach shaded by a large
umbrella-tree and a magnificent clump of bamboos, 70 feet in height.
The native life with which one comes constantly in contact, is very
interesting.
The men do whatever hard work is done in cultivating the kalo
patches and pounding the kalo. Thus kalo, the Arum esculentum,
forms the national diet. A Hawaiian could not exist without his
calabash of poi. The root is an object of the tenderest solicitude,
from the day it is planted until the hour when it is lovingly eaten.
The eating of poi seems a ceremony of profound meaning; it is like
the eating salt with an Arab, or a Masonic sign. The kalo root is
an ovate oblong, as bulky as a Californian beet, and it has large
leaves, shaped like a broad arrow, of a singularly bright green.
The best kinds grow entirely in water. The patch is embanked and
frequently inundated, and each plant grows on a small hillock of
puddled earth. The cutting from which it grows is simply the top of
the plant, with a little of the tuber.
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