The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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On Whatever Subject The Conversation Begins It Always
Ends In Dollars; But Even That Most Stimulating Of All Topics Only
Arouses A Languid Interest Among My Fellow Dreamers.
I spend most
of my time in riding in the forests, or along the bridle path which
trails along the height, among grass and frame-houses, almost
smothered by trees and trailers.
Many of these are inhabited by white men, who, having drifted to
these shores, have married native women, and are rearing a dusky
race, of children who speak the maternal tongue only, and grow up
with native habits. Some of these men came for health, others
landed from whalers, but of all it is true that infatuated by the
ease and lusciousness of this languid region,
"They sat them down upon the yellow sand,
Between the sun and moon upon the shore;
And sweet it was to dream of Fatherland,
. . . . ; but evermore
Most weary seem'd the sea, weary the oar,
Weary the wandering fields of barren foam.
Then some one said, "We will return no more."
They have enough and more, and a life free from toil, but the
obvious tendency of these marriages is to sink the white man to the
level of native feelings and habits.
There are two or three educated residents, and there is a small
English church with daily service, conducted by a resident
clergyman.
The beauty of this part of Kona is wonderful. The interminable
forest is richer and greener than anything I have yet seen, but
penetrable only by narrow tracks which have been made for hauling
timber. The trees are so dense, and so matted together with
trailers, that no ray of noon-day sun brightens the moist tangle of
exquisite mosses and ferns which covers the ground. Yams with their
burnished leaves, and the Polypodium spectrum, wind round every tree
stem, and the heavy ie, which here attains gigantic proportions,
links the tops of the tallest trees together by its stout knotted
coils. Hothouse flowers grow in rank profusion round every house,
and tea-roses, fuchsias, geraniums fifteen feet high, Nile lilies,
Chinese lantern plants, begonias, lantanas, hibiscus, passion-
flowers, Cape jasmine, the hoya, the tuberose, the beautiful but
overpoweringly sweet ginger plant, and a hundred others: while the
whole district is overrun with the Datura brugmansia (?) here an
arborescent shrub fourteen feet high, bearing seventy great trumpet-
shaped white blossoms at a time, which at night vie with those of
the night-blowing Cereus in filling the air with odours.
Pineapples and melons grow like weeds among the grass, and
everything that is good for food flourishes. Nothing can keep under
the redundancy of nature in Kona; everything is profuse, fervid,
passionate, vivified and pervaded by sunshine. The earth is
restless in her productiveness, and forces up her hothouse growth
perpetually, so that the miracle of Jonah's gourd is almost repeated
nightly. All decay is hurried out of sight, and through the glowing
year flowers blossom and fruits ripen; ferns are always uncurling
their young fronds and bananas unfolding their great shining leaves,
and spring blends her everlasting youth and promise with the
fulfilment and maturity of summer.
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