The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
- Page 18 of 244 - First - Home
They Know Very Little English, And Make Most Absurd
Mistakes, But They Are Cordial, Smiling, And Obliging, And Look Cool
And Clean.
The hotel seems the great public resort of Honolulu, the
centre of stir - club-house, exchange and drawing-room in one.
Its
wide corridors and verandahs are lively with English and American
naval uniforms, several planters' families are here for the season;
and with health seekers from California, resident boarders, whaling
captains, tourists from the British Pacific Colonies, and a stream
of townspeople always percolating through the corridors and
verandahs, it seems as lively and free-and-easy as a place can be,
pervaded by the kindliness and bonhomie which form an important item
in my first impressions of the islands. The hotel was lately built
by government at a cost of $120,000, a sum which forms a
considerable part of that token of an advanced civilization, a
National Debt. The minister whose scheme it was seems to be
severely censured on account of it, but undoubtedly it brings
strangers and their money into the kingdom, who would have avoided
it had they been obliged as formerly to cast themselves on the
hospitality of the residents. The present proprietor has it rent-
free for a term of years, but I fear that it is not likely to prove
a successful speculation either for him or the government. I
dislike health resorts, and abhor this kind of life, but for those
who like both, I cannot imagine a more fascinating residence. The
charges are $15 a week, or $3 a day, but such a kindly, open-handed
system prevails that I am not conscious that I am paying anything!
This sum includes hot and cold plunge baths ad libitum, justly
regarded as a necessity in this climate.
Dr. McGrew has hope that our invalid will rally in this healing,
equable atmosphere. Our kind fellow-passengers are here, and take
turns in watching and fanning him. Through the half-closed
jalousies we see breadfruit trees, delicate tamarinds and algarobas,
fan-palms, date-palms and bananas, and the deep blue Pacific gleams
here and there through the plumage of the cocoanut trees. A soft
breeze, scented with a slight aromatic odour, wanders in at every
opening, bringing with it, mellowed by distance, the hum and clatter
of the busy cicada. The nights are glorious, and so absolutely
still, that even the feathery foliage of the algaroba is at rest.
The stars seem to hang among the trees like lamps, and the crescent
moon gives more light than the full moon at home. The evening of
the day we landed, parties of officers and ladies mounted at the
door, and with much mirth disappeared on moonlight rides, and the
white robes of flower-crowned girls gleamed among the trees, as
groups of natives went by speaking a language which sounded more
like the rippling of water than human speech. Soft music came from
the ironclads in the harbour, and from the royal band at the king's
palace, and a rich fragrance of dewy blossoms filled the delicious
air.
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