The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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"A Withered Old Woman Stopped To Ask Food And Hospitality At The
House Of A Dweller On This Promontory, Noted For His Penuriousness.
His Kalo Patches Flourished, Cocoa-Nuts And Bananas Shaded His Hut,
Nature Was Lavish Of Her Wealth All Round Him.
But the withered hag
was sent away unfed, and as she turned her back on the man she said,
'I will return to-morrow.'
"This was Pele, the goddess of the volcano, and she kept her word,
and came back the next day in earthquakes and thunderings, rent the
mountain, and blotted out every trace of the man and his dwelling
with a flood of fire."
Maui is very "foreign" and civilised, and although it has a native
population of over 12,000, the natives are much crowded on
plantations, and one encounters little of native life. There is a
large society composed of planters' and merchants' families, and the
residents are profuse in their hospitality. It is not infrequently
taken undue advantage of, and I have heard of planters compelled to
feign excuses for leaving their houses, in order to get rid of
unintroduced and obnoxious visitors, who have quartered themselves
on them for weeks at a time. It is wonderful that their patient
hospitality is not worn out, even though, as they say, they
sometimes "entertain angels unawares."
I.L.B.
LETTER XXV.
KALAIEHA. HAWAII.
My departure from Ulupalakua illustrates some of the uncertainties
of island travelling. On Monday night my things were packed, and my
trunk sent off to the landing; but at five on Tuesday, Mr. Whipple
came to my door to say that the Kilauea was not in Lahaina roads,
and was probably laid up for repairs. I was much disappointed, for
the mild climate had disagreed with me, and I was longing for the
roystering winds and unconventional life of windward Hawaii, and
there was not another steamer for three weeks.
However, some time afterwards, I was unpacking, and in the midst of
a floor littered with ferns, photographs, books, and clothes, when
Mrs. W. rushed in to say that the steamer was just reaching the
landing below, and that there was scarcely the barest hope of
catching her. Hopeless as the case seemed, we crushed most of my
things promiscuously into a carpet bag, Mr. W. rode off with it, a
horse was imperfectly saddled for me, and I mounted him, with my
bag, straps, spurs, and a package of ferns in one hand, and my plaid
over the saddle, while Mrs. W. stuffed the rest of my possessions
into a clothes bag, and the Chinaman ran away frantically to catch a
horse on which to ride down with them.
I galloped off after Mr. W., though people called to me that I could
not catch the boat, and that my horse would fall on the steep broken
descent. My saddle slipped over his neck, but he still sped down
the hill with the rapid "racking" movement of a Narraganset pacer.
First a new veil blew away, next my plaid was missing, then I passed
my trunk on the ox-cart which should have been at the landing; but
still though the heat was fierce, and the glare from the black lava
blinding, I dashed heedlessly down, and in twenty minutes had ridden
three miles down a descent of 2,000 feet, to find the Kilauea
puffing and smoking with her anchor up; but I was in time, for her
friendly clerk, knowing that I was coming, detained the scow.
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