The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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The keen, incisive wind that swept the summit, had
no kinship with the soft breezes which were rustling the tasselled
cane in the green fields of earth which had lately gleamed through
the drift.
It was a new world and without sympathy, a solitude
which could be felt. Was it nearer God, I wonder, because so far
from man and his little works and ways? At least they seemed little
there, in presence of the tokens of a catastrophe which had not only
blown off a mountain top, and scattered it over the island, but had
disembowelled the mountain itself to a depth of 2000 feet.
Soon after noon we began to descend; and in a hollow of the
mountain, not far from the ragged edge of the crater, then filled up
with billows of cloud, we came upon what we were searching for; not,
however, one or two, but thousands of silverswords, their cold,
frosted silver gleam making the hill-side look like winter or
moonlight. They can be preserved in their beauty by putting them
under a glass shade, but it must be of monstrous dimensions, as the
finer plants measure 2 ft. by 18 in. without the flower stalk. They
exactly resemble the finest work in frosted silver, the curve of
their globular mass of leaves is perfect; and one thinks of them
rather as the base of an epergne for an imperial table, or as a
prize at Ascot or Goodwood, than as anything organic. A particular
altitude and temperature appear essential to them, and they are not
found straggling above or below a given line.
We reached Makawao very tired, soon after dark, to be heartily
congratulated on our successful ascent, and bearing no worse traces
of it than lobster-coloured faces, badly blistered.
After accepting sundry hospitalities I rode over here, skirting the
mountain at a height of 2000 feet, a most tedious ride, only
enlivened by the blaze of nasturtiums in some of the shallow
gulches. It is very pretty here, and I wish all invalids could
revel in the sweet changeless air. The name signifies "ripe bread-
fruit of the gods." The plantation is 2000 feet above the sea, and
is one of the finest on the islands; and owing to the slow maturity
of the cane at so great a height, the yield is from five to six tons
an acre. Water is very scarce; all that is used in the boiling-
house and elsewhere has been carefully led into concrete tanks for
storage, and even the walks in the proprietor's beautiful garden are
laid with cement for the same purpose. He has planted many thousand
Australian eucalyptus trees on the hillside in the hope of procuring
a larger rainfall, so that the neighbourhood has quite an exotic
appearance.
The coast is black and volcanic-looking below, jutting into the sea
in naked lava promontories, which nature has done nothing to drape.
Concerning a river of specially black lava, which runs into the sea
to the south of this house, the following legend is told:
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