The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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When
my native came up, he pointed to me and again said "paniola;" and
afterwards we were joined by
Two women, to whom my guide spoke of me
as paniola; and on coming to the top of a hill they put their horses
into a gallop, and we all rode down at a tremendous, and, as I
should once have thought, a break-neck speed, when one of the women
patted me on the shoulder, exclaiming, "maikai! maikai! paniola." I
thought they said "spaniola," taking me for a Spaniard, but on
reaching Lihue, and asking the meaning of the word, Mrs. Rice said,
"Oh, lassoing cattle, and all that kind of thing." I was disposed
to accept the inference as a compliment; but when I told Mrs. R.
that the word had been applied to myself, she laughed very much, and
said she would have toned down its meaning had she known that!
We rode through forests lighted up by crimson flowers, through
mountain valleys greener than Alpine meadows, descended steep palis,
and forded deep, strong rivers, pausing at the beautiful Wailua
Falls, which leap in a broad sheet of foam and a heavy body of water
into a dark basin, walled in by cliffs so hard that even the ferns
and mosses which revel in damp, fail to find roothold in the naked
rock. Both above and below, this river passes through a majestic
canon, and its neighbourhood abounds in small cones, some with
crateriform cavities at the top, some broken down, and others,
apparently of great age, wooded to their summits. A singular ridge,
called Mauna Kalalea, runs along this part of the island,
picturesque beyond anything, and, from its abruptness and peculiar
formation, it deceives the eye into judging it to be as high as the
gigantic domes of Hawaii. Its peaks are needle-like, or else blunt
projections of columnar basalt, rising ofttimes as terraces. At a
beautiful village called Anahola the ridge terminates abruptly, and
its highest portion is so thin that a large patch of sky can be seen
through a hole which has been worn in it.
I reached Lihue by daylight, having established my reputation as a
paniola by riding forty miles in 7.5 hours, "very good time" for the
islands. I hope to return here in August, as my hospitable friends
will not allow me to leave on any other condition. The kindness I
have received on Kauai is quite overwhelming, and I shall remember
its refined and virtuous homes as long as its loveliness and
delicious climate.
HAWAIIAN HOTEL. HONOLULU. April 23rd.
I have nothing new to add. Mr. Dexter is so far recovered that I
fear I shall not find my friends here on my return. People are in
the usual fever about the mail, and I must close this.
I.L.B.
LETTER XXIV.
ULUPALAKUA. MAUI. May 12th.
It is three weeks since I left the Hawaiian Hotel and its green mist
of algarobas, but my pleasant visits in this island do not furnish
much that will interest you.
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