The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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In Patches Of Surpassing
Neatness, There Were Strawberries, Which Are Ripe Here All The Year,
Peas, Carrots, Turnips, Asparagus, Lettuce, And Celery.
I saw no
other plants or trees which grow at home, but recognized as hardly
less familiar growths the Victorian Eucalyptus, which has not had
time to become gaunt and straggling, the Norfolk Island pine, which
grows superbly here, and the handsome Moreton Bay fig.
But the
chief feature of this road is the number of residences; I had almost
written of pretentious residences, but the term would be a base
slander, as I have jumped to the conclusion that the twin
vulgarities of ostentation and pretence have no place here. But
certainly for a mile and a half or more there are many very
comfortable-looking dwellings, very attractive to the eye, with an
ease and imperturbable serenity of demeanour as if they had nothing
to fear from heat, cold, wind, or criticism. Their architecture is
absolutely unostentatious, and their one beauty is that they are
embowered among trailers, shadowed by superb exotics, and surrounded
by banks of flowers, while the stately cocoanut, the banana, and the
candlenut, the aborigines of Oahu, are nowhere displaced. One house
with extensive grounds, a perfect wilderness of vegetation, was
pointed out as the summer palace of Queen Emma, or Kaleleonalani,
widow of Kamehameha IV., who visited England a few years ago, and
the finest garden of all was that of a much respected Chinese
merchant, named Afong. Oahu, at least on this leeward side, is not
tropical looking, and all this tropical variety and luxuriance which
delight the eye result from foreign enthusiasm and love of beauty
and shade.
When we ascended above the scattered dwellings and had passed the
tasteful mausoleum, with two tall Kahilis, {28} or feather plumes,
at the door of the tomb in which the last of the Kamehamehas
received Christian burial, the glossy, redundant, arborescent
vegetation ceased. At that height a shower of rain falls on nearly
every day in the year, and the result is a green sward which England
can hardly rival, a perfect sea of verdure, darkened in the valley
and more than half way up the hill sides by the foliage of the
yellow-blossomed and almost impenetrable hibiscus, brightened here
and there by the pea-green candlenut. Streamlets leap from crags
and ripple along the roadside, every rock and stone is hidden by
moist-looking ferns, as aerial and delicate as marabout feathers,
and when the windings of the valley and the projecting spurs of
mountains shut out all indications of Honolulu, in the cool green
loneliness one could image oneself in the temperate zones. The
peculiarity of the scenery is, that the hills, which rise to a
height of about 4,000 feet, are wall-like ridges of grey or coloured
rock, rising precipitously out of the trees and grass, and that
these walls are broken up into pinnacles and needles. At the Pali
(wall-like precipice), the summit of the ascent of 1,000 feet, we
left our buggy, and passing through a gash in the rock the
celebrated view burst on us with overwhelming effect.
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