The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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They Were Strongly Tempted By Tahiti, But Some Reasons Having
Decided Them Against It, They Sailed Northwards And Put Into
Honolulu.
Mr. Damon, who was seaman's chaplain, on going down to
the wharf one day, was surprised to find their
Trim barque, with
this immense family party on board, with a beautiful and brilliant
old lady at its head, books, pictures, work, and all that could add
refinement to a floating home, about them, and cattle and sheep of
valuable breeds in pens on deck. They then sailed for British
Columbia, but were much disappointed with it, and in three months
they re-appeared at Honolulu, much at a loss regarding their future
prospects.
The island of Niihau was then for sale, and in a very short time
they purchased it of Kamehameha V. for a ridiculously low price, and
taking their wooden houses with them, established themselves for
seven years. It is truly isolated, both by a heavy surf and a
disagreeable sea-passage, and they afterwards bought this beautiful
and extensive property, made a road, and built the house. Only the
second son and his wife live now on Niihau, where they are the only
white residents among 350 natives. It has an area of 70,000 acres,
and could sustain a far larger number of sheep than the 20,000 now
upon it. It is said that the transfer of the island involved some
hardships, owing to a number of the natives having neglected to
legalise their claims to their kuleanas, but the present possessors
have made themselves thoroughly acquainted with the language, and
take the warmest interest in the island population. Niihau is
famous for its very fine mats, and for necklaces of shells six yards
long, as well as for the extreme beauty and variety of the shells
which are found there.
The household here consists first and foremost of its head, Mrs. - -
, a lady of the old Scotch type, very talented, bright, humorous,
charming, with a definite character which impresses its force upon
everybody; beautiful in her old age, disdaining that servile
conformity to prevailing fashion which makes many old people at once
ugly and contemptible: speaking English with a slight, old-
fashioned, refined Scotch accent, which gives naivete to everything
she says, up to the latest novelty in theology and politics:
devoted to her children and grandchildren, the life of the family,
and though upwards of seventy, the first to rise, and the last to
retire in the house. She was away when I came, but some days
afterwards rode up on horseback, in a large drawn silk bonnet, which
she rarely lays aside, as light in her figure and step as a young
girl, looking as if she had walked out of an old picture, or one of
Dean Ramsay's books.
Then there are her eldest son, a bachelor, two widowed daughters
with six children between them, three of whom are grown up young
men, and a tutor, a young Prussian officer, who was on Maximilian's
staff up to the time of the Queretaro disaster, and is still
suffering from Mexican barbarities.
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