The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Subsequently, After Disobeying
Orders, He Lost His Horse, Which Was A Borrowed One, Deserted His
Mistress, And Absconded!
The slopes over which we travelled were red, hot, and stony, cleft
in one place however, by a green,
Fertile valley, full of rice and
kalo patches, and native houses, with a broad river, the Hanapepe,
flowing quietly down the middle, which we forded near the sea, where
it was half-way up my horse's sides. After plodding all day over
stony soil in the changeless sunshine, as the shadows lengthened, we
turned directly up towards the mountains and began a two hours
ascent. It was delicious. They were so cool, so green, so varied,
their grey pinnacles so splintered, their precipices so abrupt,
their ravines so dark and deep, and their lower slopes covered with
the greenest and finest grass; then dark ohias rose singly, then in
twos and threes, and finally mixed in dense forest masses, with the
pea-green of the kukui.
It became yet lovelier as the track wound through deep wooded
ravines, or snaked along the narrow tops of spine-like ridges; the
air became cooler, damper, and more like elixir, till at a height of
1500 feet we came upon Makaueli, ideally situated upon an unequalled
natural plateau, a house of patriarchal size for the islands, with a
verandah festooned with roses, fuchsias, the water lemon, and other
passion flowers, and with a large guest-house attached. It stands
on a natural lawn, with abrupt slopes, sprinkled with orange trees
burdened with fruit, ohias, and hibiscus. From the back verandah
the forest-covered mountains rise, and in front a deep ravine widens
to the grassy slopes below and the lonely Pacific, - as I write, a
golden sea, on which the island of Niihau, eighteen miles distant,
floats like an amethyst.
The solitude is perfect. Except the "quarters" at the back, I think
there is not a house, native or foreign, within six miles, though
there are several hundred natives on the property. Birds sing in
the morning, and the trees rustle throughout the day; but in the
cool evenings the air is perfectly still, and the trickle of a
stream is the only sound.
The house has the striking novelty of a chimney, and there is a fire
all day long in the dining-room.
I must now say a little about my hosts and try to give you some idea
of them. I heard their history from Mr. Damon, and thought it too
strange to be altogether true until it was confirmed by themselves.
{303} The venerable lady at the head of the house emigrated from
Scotland to New Zealand many years ago, where her husband was
unfortunately drowned, and she being left to bring up a large
family, and manage a large property, was equally successful with
both. Her great ambition was to keep her family together, something
on the old patriarchal system; and when her children grew up, and it
seemed as if even their very extensive New Zealand property was not
large enough for them, she sold it, and embarking her family and
moveable possessions on board a clipper-ship, owned and commanded by
one of her sons-in-law, they sailed through the Pacific in search of
a home where they could remain together.
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