The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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It Is Called The "Garden Island," And Has
No Great Wastes Of Black Lava And Red Ash Like Its Neighbours.
It
is queerly shaped, almost circular, with a diameter of from twenty-
eight to thirty miles, and its area
Is about 500 square miles.
Waialeale, its highest mountain, is 4,800 feet high, but little is
known of it, for it is swampy and dangerous, and a part of it is a
forest-covered and little explored tableland, terminating on the sea
in a range of perpendicular precipices 2,000 feet in depth, so steep
it is said, that a wild cat could not get round them. Owing to
these, and the virtual inaccessibility of a large region behind
them, no one can travel round the island by land, and small as it
is, very little seems to be known of portions of its area.
Kauai has apparently two centres of formation, and its mountains are
thickly dotted with craters. The age and density of the vegetation
within and without those in this Koloa district, indicate a very
long cessation from volcanic action. It is truly an oddly contrived
island. An elevated rolling region, park-like, liberally ornamented
with clumps of ohia, lauhala, hau, (hibiscus) and koa, and
intersected with gullies full of large eugenias, lies outside the
mountain spurs behind Koloa. It is only the tropical trees,
specially the lauhala or "screw pine," the whimsical shapes of
outlying ridges, which now and then lie like the leaves in a book,
and the strange forms of extinct craters, which distinguish it from
some of our most beautiful park scenery, such as Windsor Great Park
or Belvoir. It is a soft tranquil beauty, and a tolerable road
which owes little enough to art, increases the likeness to the sweet
home scenery of England. In this part of the island the ground
seems devoid of stones, and the grass is as fine and smooth as a
race course.
The latest traces of volcanic action are found here. From the Koloa
Ridge to, and into the sea, a barren uneven surface of pahoehoe
extends, often bulged up in immense bubbles, some of which have
partially burst, leaving caverns, one of which, near the shore, is
paved with the ancient coral reef!
The valleys of Kauai are long, and widen to the sea, and their dark
rich soil is often ten feet deep. On the windward side the rivers
are very numerous and picturesque. Between the strong winds and the
lightness of the soil, I should think that like some parts of the
Highlands, "it would take a shower every day." The leeward side,
quite close to the sea, is flushed and nearly barren, but there is
very little of this desert region. Kauai is less legible in its
formation than the other islands. Its mountains, from their
impenetrable forests, dangerous breaks, and swampiness, are
difficult of access, and its ridges are said to be more utterly
irregular, its lavas more decomposed, and its natural sections more
completely smothered under a profuse vegetation than those of any
other island in the tropical Pacific.
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