The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Her Guns Fired During Morning
Service, And I Doubt Whether I Or Any Other Person Heard Another
Word Of The Sermon.
The first batch of letters for the hotel came,
but none for me; the second, none for me; and
I had gone to my room
in cold despair, when some one tossed a large package in at my
verandah door, and to my infinite joy I found that one of my benign
fellow-passengers in the Nevada, had taken the responsibility of
getting my letters at San Francisco and forwarding them here. I
don't know how to be grateful enough to the good man. With such
late and good news, everything seems bright; and I have at once
decided to take the first schooner for the leeward group, and remain
four months longer on the islands.
I.L.B.
LETTER XX.
KOLOA, KAUAI, March 23rd.
I am spending a few days on some quaint old mission premises, and
the "guest house," where I am lodged, is a dobe house, with walls
two feet thick, and a very thick grass roof comes down six feet all
round to shade the windows. It is itself shaded by date palms and
algarobas, and is surrounded by hibiscus, oleanders, and the datura
arborea(?), which at night fill the air with sweetness. I am the
only guest, and the solitude of the guest house in which I am
writing is most refreshing to tired nerves. There is not a sound
but the rustling of trees.
The first event to record is that the trade winds have set in, and
though they may yet yield once or twice to the kona, they will soon
be firmly established for nine months. They are not soft airs as I
supposed, but riotous, rollicking breezes, which keep up a constant
clamour, blowing the trees about, slamming doors, taking liberties
with papers, making themselves heard and felt everywhere, flecking
the blue Pacific with foam, lowering the mercury three degrees,
bringing new health and vigour with them, - wholesome, cheery,
frolicsome north-easters. They brought me here from Oahu in
eighteen hours, for which I thank them heartily.
You will think me a Sybarite for howling about those eighteen hours
of running to leeward, when the residents of Kauai, if they have to
go to Honolulu in the intervals between the quarterly trips of the
Kilauea, have to spend from three to nine days in beating to
windward. These inter-island voyages of extreme detention, rolling
on a lazy swell in tropical heat, or beating for days against the
strong trades without shelter from the sun, and without anything
that could be called accommodation, were among the inevitable
hardships to which the missionaries' wives and children were exposed
in every migration for nearly forty years.
When I reached the wharf at Honolulu the sight of the Jenny, the
small sixty-ton schooner by which I was to travel, nearly made me
give up this pleasant plan, so small she looked, and so cumbered
with natives and their accompaniments of mats, dogs, and calabashes
of poi.
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