The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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Water Was Up To Their Waists, And Leis Of Ohia Blossoms And Ferns,
And Masses Of Unbound Hair Fantastically Wreathed With Moss, Fell
Over Their Faultless Forms, And Their Rich Brown Skin Gleamed In The
Slant Sunshine.
They were catching shrimps with trumpet-shaped
baskets, perhaps rather a prosaic occupation.
They joined us, and
we waded down together to the place where they had left their
horses. The women slipped into their holukus, and the man insisted
on my riding his barebacked horse to the place where we had left our
own, and then we all galloped over the soft grass.
Waimanu had turned out to meet us about thirty people on horseback,
all of whom shook hands with me, and some of them threw over me
garlands of ohia, pandanus, and hibiscus. Where our cavalcade
entered the river, a number of children and dogs and three canoes
awaited us, and thus escorted I returned triumphantly to the house.
The procession on the river of paddling canoes, swimming children,
and dogs, and more than thirty riders, with their feet tucked up
round their horses' necks, all escorting a "pale face," was
grotesque and enchanting, and I revelled in this lapse into
savagery, and enjoyed heartily the kindliness and goodwill of this
unsophisticated people.
When darkness spread over the valley, clear voices ascended in a
weird recitative, the room filled up with people, pipes circulated
freely, poi was again produced, and calabashes of cocoa-nut milk.
The meles were long, and I crept within my curtain and lay down, but
the drowsiness which legitimately came over me after riding thirty
miles and wading two, was broken in upon by two monstrous
cockroaches really as large as mice, with fierce-looking antennae
and prominent eyes, both of which mounted guard on my pillow. On
rising to drive them away, I found to my dismay that they were but
the leaders of a host, which only made a temporary retreat, rustling
over the mat and dried grass with the crisp tread of mice, and
scaring away sleep for some hours. Worse than these were the
mosquitoes, also an imported nuisance, which stabbed and stung
without any preliminary droning; and the heat was worse still, for
thirteen human beings were lying on the floor and the door was shut.
Had I known that two of these were lepers, I should have felt far
from comfortable. As it was, I got up soon after midnight, and
cautiously stepping among the sleeping forms, went out of doors.
Everything favoured reflection, but I think the topics to which my
mind most frequently reverted were my own absolute security - a lone
white woman among "savages," and the civilizing influence which
Christianity has exercised, so that even in this isolated valley,
gouged out of a mountainous coast, there was nothing disagreeable or
improper to be seen. The night was very still, but the sea was
moaning; the river rippled very gently as it brushed past the reeds;
there was a hardly perceptible vibration in the atmosphere, which
suggested falling water and quivering leaves; and the air was full
of a heavy, drowsy fragrance, the breath of orange flowers, perhaps,
and of the night-blowing Cereus, which had opened its ivory urn to
the moon.
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