The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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also 1000 head of cattle and 50 horses.
The industry of Waimea is cattle raising, and some feeble attempts
are being made to improve the degenerate island breed by the
importation of a few short-horn cows from New Zealand. These plains
afford magnificent pasturage as well as galloping ground. They are
a very great thoroughfare. The island, which is an equilateral
triangle, about 300 miles in "circuit," can only be crossed here.
Elsewhere, an impenetrable forest belt, and an impassable volcanic
wilderness, compel travellers to take the burning track of adamant
which snakes round the southern coast, when they are minded to go
from one side of Hawaii to the other. Waimea also has the singular
distinction of a road from the beach, which is traversed on great
occasions by two or three oxen and mule teams, and very rarely by a
more ambitious conveyance. There are few hours of day or night in
which the tremulous thud of shoeless horses galloping on grass is
not heard in Waimea.
The altitude of this great table-land is 2500 feet, and the air is
never too hot, the temperature averaging 64 degrees Fahrenheit.
There is mist or rain on most days of the year for a short time, and
the mornings and evenings are clear and cool. The long sweeping
curves of the three great Hawaiian mountains spring from this level.
The huge bulk of Mauna Kea without shoulders or spurs, rises
directly from the Waimea level on the south to the altitude of
14,000 feet, and his base is thickly clustered with tufa-cones of a
bright red colour, from 300 to 1000 feet in height. Considerably
further back, indeed forty miles away, the smooth dome of Mauna Loa
appears very serene now, but only thirteen years ago the light was
so brilliant, from one of its tremendous eruptions, that here it was
possible to read a newspaper by it, and during its height candles
were unnecessary in the evenings! Nearer the coast, and about
thirty miles from here, is the less conspicuous dome of the dead
volcano of Hualalai. If all Hawaii, south of Waimea, were submerged
to a depth of 8000 feet, three nearly equi-distant, dome-shaped
volcanic islands would remain, the highest of which would have an
altitude of 6000 feet. To the south of these plains violent
volcanic action is everywhere apparent, not only in tufa cones, but
in tracts of ashes, scoriae, and volcanic sand. Near the centre
there are some very curious caves, possibly "lava bubbles," which
were used by the natives as places of sepulture. The Kohala hills,
picturesque, wooded, and abrupt, bound Waimea on the north, with
their exquisite grassy slopes, and bring down an abundance of water
to the plain, but owing to the lightness of the soil and the
evaporation produced by the tremendous winds, the moisture
disappears within two miles of the hills, and an area of rich soil,
ten miles by twelve, which, if irrigated, would be invaluable, is
nothing but a worthless dusty desert, perpetually encroaching on the
grass.
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