The Hawaiian Archipelago - Six Months Among The Palm Groves, Coral Reefs, And Volcanoes Of The Sandwich Islands By Isabella L. Bird
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The Strongest Of All Is, That If We
Were To Stay Here For A Year, We Should Just Sit Down "Between The
Sun And Moon Upon The Shore," And Forget "Our Island Home," And Be
Content To Fall "Asleep In A Half Dream," And "Return No More!"
Of course you will have gathered from my letters that there are very
many advantages here.
Indeed, the mosquitoes of the leeward coast,
to whose attacks one becomes inured in a few months, are the only
physical drawback. The open-air life is most conducive to health,
and the climate is absolutely perfect, owing to its equability and
purity. Whether the steady heat of Honolulu, the languid airs of
Hilo, the balmy breezes of Onomea, the cool bluster of Waimea, or
the odorous stillness of Kona, it is always the same. The grim
gloom of our anomalous winters, the harsh malignant winds of our
springs, and the dismal rains and overpowering heats of our summers,
have no counterpart in the endless spring-time of Hawaii.
Existence here is unclogged and easy, a small income goes a long
way, and the simplicity, refinement, kindliness, and sociability of
the foreign residents, render society very pleasant. The life here
is truer, simpler, kinder, and happier than ours. The relation
between the foreign and native population is a kindly and happy one,
and the natives, in spite of their faults, are a most friendly and
pleasant people to live among. With a knowledge of their easily-
acquired language, they would be a ceaseless source of interest, and
every white resident can have the satisfaction of helping them in
their frequent distresses and illnesses.
The sense of security is a very special charm, and one enjoys it as
well in lonely native houses, and solitary days and nights of
travelling, as in the foreign homes, which are never locked
throughout the year. There are no burglarious instincts to dread,
and there is no such thing as "a broken sleep of fear beneath the
stars." The person and property of a white man are everywhere
secure, and a white woman is sure of unvarying respect and kindness.
There are no inevitable hardships. The necessaries, and even the
luxuries of civilization can be obtained everywhere, and postal
communication with America is now regular and rapid.
When I began this letter, a long procession of counterbalancing
disadvantages passed through my mind, but they become "beautifully
less" as I set them down in black and white. If I put gossip first,
it is because I seriously think that it is the canker of the foreign
society on the islands. Its extent and universality are grotesque
and amusing to a stranger, but to live in it, and share in it, and
learn to enjoy it, would be both lowering and hurtful, and you can
hardly be long here without being drawn into its vortex. By GOSSIP
I don't mean scandal or malignant misrepresentations, or reports of
petty strifes, intrigues, and jealousies, such as are common in all
cliques and communities, but nuhou, mere tattle, the perpetual
talking about people, and the picking to tatters of every item of
personal detail, whether gathered from fact or imagination.
A great deal of this is certainly harmless, and in some measure
arises from the intimate friendly relations which exist between the
scattered families, but over-indulgence in it destroys the privacy
of individual existence, and is deteriorating in more ways than one.
From the north of Kauai to the south of Hawaii, everybody knows
every other body's affairs, income, expenditure, sales, purchases,
debts, furniture, clothing, comings, goings, borrowings, lendings,
letters, correspondents, and every thing else: and when there is
nothing new to relate on any one of these prolific subjects,
supposed intentions afford abundant matter for speculation. All
gossip is focussed here, being imported from every other district,
and re-exported, with additions and embellishments, by every inter-
island mail. The ingenuity with which nuhou is circulated is worthy
of a better cause.
Some disadvantages arise from the presence on the islands of
heterogeneous and ill-assorted nationalities. The Americans, of
course, predominate, and even those who are Hawaiian born, have, as
elsewhere, a strongly national feeling. The far smaller English
community hangs together in a somewhat cliquish fashion, and
possibly cherishes a latent grudge against the Americans for their
paramount influence in island affairs. The German residents, as
everywhere, are cliquish too. Then, since the establishment of the
Honolulu Mission, church feeling has run rather high, and here, as
elsewhere, has a socially divisive tendency. Then there are drink
and anti-drink, pro and anti-missionary, and pro and anti-
reciprocity-treaty parties, and various other local naggings of no
interest to you.
The civilization is exotic, and owing to various circumstances, the
government and constitution are too experimental and provisional in
their nature, and possess too few elements of permanence to engross
the profound interest of the foreign residents, although for reasons
of policy they are well inclined to sustain a barbaric throne. In
spite of a king and court, and titles and officials without number,
and uniforms stiff with gold lace, and Royal dinner parties with
menus printed on white silk, Americans, Republicans in feeling,
really "run" the government, and in state affairs there is a taint
of that combination of obsequious and flippant vulgarity, which none
deplore more deeply than the best among the Americans themselves.
It is a decided misfortune to a community to be divided in its
national leanings, and to have no great fusing interests within or
without itself, such as those which knit vigorous Victoria to the
mother country, or distant Oregon to the heart of the Republic at
Washington. Except sugar and dollars, one rarely hears any subject
spoken about with general interest. The downfall of an
administration in England, or any important piece of national
legislation, arouses almost no interest in American society here,
and the English are ostentatiously apathetic regarding any piece of
intelligence specially absorbing to Americans.
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