In The Midst Of These High Branches Is
What Is Called The Cabbage, Which, When Taken Out Of The Outer Leaves,
Is A Foot In Length, And As Thick As The Small Of A Man's Leg, As White
As Milk, And Both Sweet And Wholesome.
Between the cabbages and the
large branches many small twigs sprout out, two feet long and very close
together, at the extremities of which grow hard round berries, about the
size of cherries, which fall once a year on the ground, and are
excellent food for hogs.
The trunk has projecting rings half a foot
asunder, the bark being thin and brittle, the wood hard and black, and
the pith white. As the tree dies when deprived of its head, which is the
cabbage, it is usually cut down before gathering the fruit.
As the coast and country of Lima has continual dry weather, so this
northern part of Peru is seldom without rain, which is perhaps one
reason why this part of the coast is so little known. Besides, in going
from Panama to Lima, they seldom pass along the coast, but sail to the
west as far as the Cobaya Islands, to meet the west winds, and thence
stand over for Cape St Francisco. In returning to Panama, they keep
along the coast, but being deeply laden, their ships are not fit to
enter the rivers, the banks of which, and the seacoast, are covered with
trees and bushes, and are therefore convenient for the natives to lie in
ambush. The Indians have some plantations of maize and plantains, and
also breed fowls and hogs. On the 27th December, 1684, we entered the
river of St Jago [Patia] with four canoes by the lesser branch, and
met with no inhabitants till six leagues from its mouth, where we
observed two small huts thatched with palmito leaves. We saw at the same
time several Indians, with their families and household goods, paddling
up the river much faster than we could row, as they kept near the banks.
On the opposite, or west side, we saw many other huts, about a league
off but did not venture to cross the river, as the current was very
rapid. In the two huts on the east side we only found a few plantains,
some fowls, and one hog, which seemed to be of the European kind, such
as the Spaniards brought formerly to America, and chiefly to Jamaica,
Hispaniola, and Cuba, where, being previously marked, they feed in the
woods all day, and are recalled to their pens at night by the sound of
conch shells.
We returned next morning to the mouth of the river, intending to proceed
to the isle of Gallo, where we had directed the ships to meet us. This
small uninhabited island, in lat. 3 deg. N.[168] is situated in a spacious
bay, three leagues from the river Tomaco, and four and a half from an
Indian village of the same name. It is moderately high, and well stored
with timber, having a good sandy bay at its N.E. end, near which is a
fine stream of fresh water; and over against the bay there is good
anchorage in six or seven fathoms. There is only one channel by which to
approach this island, in which are four fathoms, and into which it is
necessary to enter with the flood, and to come out with the ebb. The
river Tomaco is supposed to have its origin in the rich mountains of
Quito, and takes its name from that of a village on its banks.[169] The
country on this river is well peopled by Indians, among whom are a few
Spaniards, who traffic for gold with the natives. This river is so
shallow at the mouth, that it can only be entered by barks. The town of
Tomaco is small, and situated near the mouth of the river, being
chiefly occupied by the Spaniards, who trade in this neighbourhood. From
this place to that branch of the river St Jago where we were then at
anchor is five leagues.
[Footnote 168: The lat. of Gallo is only 1 deg. 57' N. That assigned in the
text would lead to the isle of Gorgona, in 2 deg. 54' N. but the description
of our author suits much better with Gallo. - E.]
[Footnote 169: The island and point of Tomaco are placed in modern maps
at the mouth of the Mira, off which are many islands, in lat. 1 deg. 40'N.]
As the land here is low and full of creeks, we left the river on the
21st December, and crossed these small bays in our canoes. In our way we
saw an Indian hut, whence we took the master and all his family, and
rowing forwards, we came to Tomaco at midnight. We here seized all the
inhabitants, among whom was one Don Diego de Pinas, a Spanish knight,
whose ship was at anchor not far off to load with timber, and in which
we found thirteen jars of good wine, but no other loading. An Indian
canoe came to us, in which were three natives, who were straight and
well-limbed, but of low stature, having black hair, long visages, small
eyes and noses, and dark complexions. Several of our men, who had gone
seven or eight leagues up the river, returned on the 31st, bringing with
them several ounces of gold, which they had found in a Spanish house,
whence the inhabitants had fled.
On the 1st January, 1685, while going in our canoes from Tomaco to
Gallo, we took a packet of letters in a Spanish boat bound from Panama
to Lima, by which the president of Panama wrote to hasten the Plate
fleet from Lima, as the armada from Spain had arrived in Porto Bello.
This intelligence made us change our intention of proceeding to Lavelia,
instead of which we now proposed to make for the Pearl Islands, not
far from Panama, past which all ships bound from the south for Panama
must necessarily pass.
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