Sometimes the whistle of a solitary
muleteer, lagging with his lazy animal along the road that winds
through the centre of the valley; sometimes the faint piping of a
shepherd's reed from the side of the mountain, or sometimes the bell of
an ass slowly pacing along, followed by a monk with bare feet and bare
shining head, and carrying provisions to the convent.
I had continued to sketch for some time among my sleeping companions,
when at length I saw the captain of the band approaching, followed by a
peasant leading a mule, on which was a well-filled sack. I at first
apprehended that this was some new prey fallen into the hands of the
robbers, but the contented look of the peasant soon relieved me, and I
was rejoiced to hear that it was our promised repast. The brigands now
came running from the three sides of the mountain, having the quick
scent of vultures. Every one busied himself in unloading the mule and
relieving the sack of its contents.
The first thing that made its appearance was an enormous ham of a color
and plumpness that would have inspired the pencil of Teniers. It was
followed by a large cheese, a bag of boiled chestnuts, a little barrel
of wine, and a quantity of good household bread. Everything was
arranged on the grass with a degree of symmetry, and the captain
presenting me his knife, requested me to help myself. We all seated
ourselves round the viands, and nothing was heard for a time but the
sound of vigorous mastication, or the gurgling of the barrel of wine as
it revolved briskly about the circle. My long fasting and the mountain
air and exercise had given me a keen appetite, and never did repast
appear to me more excellent or picturesque.
From time to time one of the band was despatched to keep a look-out
upon the plain: no enemy was at hand, and the dinner was undisturbed.
The peasant received nearly twice the value of his provisions, and set
off down the mountain highly satisfied with his bargain. I felt
invigorated by the hearty meal I had made, and notwithstanding that the
wound I had received the evening before was painful, yet I could not
but feel extremely interested and gratified by the singular scenes
continually presented to me. Every thing seemed pictured about these
wild beings and their haunts. Their bivouacs, their groups on guard,
their indolent noon-tide repose on the mountain brow, their rude repast
on the herbage among rocks and trees, every thing presented a study for
a painter. But it was towards the approach of evening that I felt the
highest enthusiasm awakened.
The setting sun, declining beyond the vast Campagna, shed its rich
yellow beams on the woody summits of the Abruzzi. Several mountains
crowned with snow shone brilliantly in the distance, contrasting their
brightness with others, which, thrown into shade, assumed deep tints of
purple and violet. As the evening advanced, the landscape darkened into
a sterner character. The immense solitude around; the wild mountains
broken into rocks and precipices, intermingled with vast oak, cork, and
chestnuts; and the groups of banditti in the foreground, reminded me of
those savage scenes of Salvator Rosa.
To beguile the time the captain proposed to his comrades to spread
before me their jewels and cameos, as I must doubtless be a judge of
such articles, and able to inform them of their nature. He set the
example, the others followed it, and in a few moments I saw the grass
before me sparkling with jewels and gems that would have delighted the
eyes of an antiquary or a fine lady. Among them were several precious
jewels and antique intaglios and cameos of great value, the spoils
doubtless of travellers of distinction. I found that they were in the
habit of selling their booty in the frontier towns. As these in general
were thinly and poorly peopled, and little frequented by travellers,
they could offer no market for such valuable articles of taste and
luxury. I suggested to them the certainty of their readily obtaining
great pieces for these gems among the rich strangers with which Rome
was thronged.
The impression made upon their greedy minds was immediately apparent.
One of the band, a young man, and the least known, requested permission
of the captain to depart the following day in disguise for Rome, for
the purpose of traffick; promising on the faith of a bandit (a sacred
pledge amongst them) to return in two days to any place he might
appoint. The captain consented, and a curious scene took place. The
robbers crowded round him eagerly, confiding to him such of their
jewels as they wished to dispose of, and giving him instructions what
to demand. There was bargaining and exchanging and selling of trinkets
among themselves, and I beheld my watch, which had a chain and valuable
seals, purchased by the young robber merchant of the ruffian who had
plundered me, for sixty dollars. I now conceived a faint hope that if
it went to Rome, I might somehow or other regain possession of it.
In the mean time day declined, and no messenger returned from Tusculum.
The idea of passing another night in the woods was extremely
disheartening; for I began to be satisfied with what I had seen of
robber life. The chieftain now ordered his men to follow him, that he
might station them at their posts, adding, that if the messenger did
not return before night they must shift their quarters to some other
place.
I was again left alone with the young bandit who had before guarded me:
he had the same gloomy air and haggard eye, with now and then a bitter
sardonic smile. I was determined to probe this ulcerated heart, and
reminded him of a kind of promise he had given me to tell me the cause
of his suffering.
