After A While, We Got A Porter To Take The Luggage.
After some hard
knocking we roused an innkeeper, and by three o'clock we were all in
as good beds as mortals could desire.
At nine o'clock we breakfasted, and at ten my delighted eyes rested
on the real, living York Minster; the dream of my youth was
realized, and I stood in its majestic presence. I entered; the
service had just begun; the organ was playing, they were chanting.
You could not tell from whence the music came. It was every where;
it enters your soul like a beautiful poetic thought, and you know
not what possesses you. Only your whole soul is full of worship,
peace, and joy. I could hardly keep from falling on my knees. Look
at the fine engravings, and study it all out as well as you can;
still you can form no adequate idea of the effect of those endless
arches, of the exquisite carving in stone, of the flowers, strange
figures, and in short every wild, every grotesque thing that you can
or cannot imagine. Well has it been called a great poem in stone, -
such grace, such aspiration, such power, such harmony. O, it was
worth crossing the Atlantic, that first impression.
After the service, I took a guide and went all over this miracle of
beauty and genius, and read the inscriptions and saw the
curiosities.
During my second stay in Liverpool, my friend took me to Chester,
that wonderful old city, just on the borders of Wales. If you can
imagine the front rooms of the second story of a row of houses taken
out, and in their place a floor put over the lower story and a
ceiling under the upper story, and shops in the back rooms, you will
form some idea of Chester. All the streets, nearly, are made in this
way. The carts and horses go in the narrow streets between the
houses, but foot passengers walk in this curious sort of piazzas,
put into the houses instead of being added to them. The most elegant
shops are here in these back rooms, and you walk for whole long
streets under cover, with the dwellings of the inhabitants over your
heads and under your feet. Often the upper story shelves over the
third, so that you almost wonder why the house does not tumble over.
A friend, whom I had never seen, did me the honor to invite me to
her hospitable mansion in Manchester. It was indeed a great
privilege to be allowed to make a part of the family circle, and sit
with them by their fireside, and be made to feel at home so far from
one's native land; and this I experienced all the time I was in
England.
I was prepared for the appearance of Manchester. So I was not
astonished at the number of tall chimneys, nor at the quantity of
smoke that issued from them. And I could quite enter into the
feelings of the friend who told me that nothing was more melancholy
than to see a clear atmosphere over the town; the blacker it looked
the more prosperity was indicated, and the more cause for rejoicing.
My kind friend took me to one of the great print factories. My
principal wish for going was to see how the factory people looked,
whether they seemed well and happy. I observed them; they were well
dressed, and were cheerful in their appearance. There were a few
children employed, who looked healthy and happy. There was at this
factory a reading room, nicely warmed and perfectly comfortable,
where the workman, by subscribing a penny or two a week, could
obtain the right to spend his leisure hours and see the periodicals
and newspapers. Each one had a vote in deciding what these papers
should be, as they were paid for by the subscription money of the
laborers. The proprietors paid a certain sum towards the support of
the reading room.
Of course, seeing one prosperous factory and the fortunate workmen
in it, in Manchester, cannot enable one to form any adequate
judgment of the condition of the working people.
I visited the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb, which appeared to me to
have an admirable teacher. One of his best aids is a young man who
was his pupil. The teacher desired me to ask of this young man the
meaning of some word that had an abstract meaning. I asked him what
he understood by intelligence. He put his hand to his head, and
thought for some time, before he attempted to reply; then he nearly
covered the slate with his definition. He evidently saw the
difference between intelligence and learning or knowledge, but had
to use many words to express his idea; but I thought he had as clear
a thought as any of us. After he had given the best definition he
could, he added, "There is another meaning to the word: it means
news, sometimes."
There was, at this Asylum, a little girl, about twelve years old,
who was blind, as well as deaf and dumb. She was a very interesting
child from her countenance and manner, apart from her infirmity. Her
face was far more beautiful than Laura Bridgman's; her head good,
but not so fine at present, not so well developed. Her eyes were
closed, and her long, dark lashes rested on her cheeks with a
mournful expression. The teacher was just getting into communication
with her, but had to make many efforts, such as pressing her head,
her heart, and shoulders, as well as her hands. When he tried to
tell her that Laura Bridgman, in America, was in the same state that
she was, and that she had learned a great deal, and had sent her
love to all the deaf and dumb, by a lady who had come to see her,
she raised her head, and looked as if trying to see or hear, and
then put out her hand.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 6 of 12
Words from 5087 to 6097
of 12178