One contains a beautiful collection of pictures by
Vandyke.
We saw the grand malachite vase, presented to Victoria by
the Emperor of Russia, large enough to hold one or two men. After
seeing the rooms, we ascended the tower, whence is a fine view. We
then walked on the terrace, and went to join the rest of our party,
who had gone before us to the hotel.
We then went to get a look at the famous Eton school, about a mile
distant. The Eton boys amused me much. They go there very young, and
remain there a long while, till they are ready to enter the
universities. Their dress indicates their advancement in age and
standing. First comes a jacket, then a little suspicion of a tail,
which gradually lengthens and widens as maturity comes on, till, at
last, it is a perfect tail coat. I saw specimens in these various
stages of growth.
After one of the happiest weeks that ever mortals passed, I said a
reluctant farewell, and departed for London, where more kind
friends, whom I had never seen, were expecting my arrival. I can
now, in my mind's eye, see all the dear family on the steps or in
the hall door, giving us their parting blessing, and the old
comfortable-looking gentlemanly butler arranging my luggage. One of
the dear family accompanied me to the railroad, and saw me fairly on
my way to London.
In London we again enjoyed the great pleasure of being received like
old friends, not heard there truly divine music. There is no
describing and no forgetting the effect of one of those sublime
religious strains that seem to burst forth from you know not where,
and swell and grow fuller and louder, and then more and more
distant, and fainter and fainter, till you think it dying in the
distance, and then gush out with an overwhelming fulness of harmony
and beauty. One feels as if he would hear such strains at the hour
of death.
Our next object was St. Paul's. How different! how very different!
In a Gothic building, you think that the artist, who designed it,
had in mind the idea of the solemn forest where the crossing
branches produce all those beautiful lines and forms, which so
delight your eye, and where the dim, mysterious light awakens and
accords with the religious sentiment; but the effect of the great
dome, which suggests the open sky, is entirely opposite. The effect
upon your mind of standing in the middle of St. Paul's is very
impressive; but what moved me most was the sound of the people
without the walls. No one of our party spoke, and the noise of the
busy multitude without was like the waves of the ocean. I had heard
the voice of many waters while coming over the Atlantic, and there
is no exaggeration; it is just such a sound, such an ebbing and
flowing, and yet such a full and constant roar, as the waves make
after continued high winds.
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