Here And There
Were Gardens Filled With Young Fruit-Trees; Among The Largest And Hardiest
In Appearance Was The Peach-Tree, Which Here Spreads Broad And Sturdy
Branches, Escapes The Diseases That Make It A Short-Lived Tree In The
Atlantic States, And Produces Fruit Of Great Size And Richness.
One of my
fellow-passengers could hardly find adequate expressions to signify his
high sense of the deliciousness of the Cleveland peaches.
I made my way to a street of shops: it had a busy appearance, more so than
usual, I was told, for a company of circus-riders, whose tents I had seen
from a distance on the lake, was in town, and this had attracted a throng
of people from the country. I saw a fruit-stall tended by a man who had
the coarsest red hair I think I ever saw, and of whom I bought two or
three enormous "bough apples," as he called them. He apologized for the
price he demanded. "The farmers," said he, "know that just now there is a
call for their early fruit, while the circus people are in town, and they
make me pay a 'igh price for it." I told him I perceived he was no Yankee.
"I am a Londoner," he replied; "and I left London twelve years ago to
slave and be a poor man in Ohio." He acknowledged, however, that he had
two or three times got together some property, "but the Lord," he said,
"laid his hand on it."
On returning to the steamer, I found a party of country people, mostly
young persons of both sexes, thin and lank figures, by no means equal, as
productions of the country, to their bough apples. They passed through the
fine spacious cabin on the upper deck, extending between the state-rooms
the whole length of the steamer. At length they came to a large mirror,
which stood at the stern, and seemed by its reflection to double the
length of the cabin. They walked on, as if they would extend their
promenade into the mirror, when suddenly observing the reflection of their
own persons advancing, and thinking it another party, they politely made
way to let it pass. The party in the mirror at the same moment turned to
the same side, which first showed them the mistake they had made. The
passengers had some mirth at their expense, but I must do our visitors the
justice to say that they joined in the laugh with a very good grace.
The same evening, at twelve o'clock, we were at Detroit. "You must lock
your state-rooms in the night," said one of the persons employed about
the vessel, "for Detroit is full of thieves." We followed the advice,
slept soundly, and saw nothing of the thieves, nor of Detroit either, for
the steamboat was again on her passage through Lake St. Clair at three
this morning, and when I awoke we were moving over the flats, as they are
called, at the upper end of the lake. The steamer was threading her way in
a fog between large patches of sedge of a pea-green color. We had waited
several hours at Detroit, because this passage is not safe at night, and
steamers of a larger size are sometimes grounded here in the day-time.
I had hoped, when I began, to bring down the narrative of my voyage to
this moment, but my sheet is full, and I shall give you the remainder in
another letter.
Letter XXXI.
A Trip from Detroit to Mackinaw.
Steamer Oregon, Lake Michigan, _July_ 25, 1846.
Soon after passing the flats described in my last letter, and entering the
river St. Clair, the steamer stopped to take in wood on the Canadian side.
Here I went on shore. All that we could see of the country was a road
along the bank, a row of cottages at a considerable distance from each
other along the road, a narrow belt of cleared fields behind them, and
beyond the fields the original forest standing like a long lofty wall,
with its crowded stems of enormous size and immense height, rooted in the
strong soil - ashes and maples and elms, the largest of their species.
Scattered in the foreground were numbers of leafless elms, so huge that
the settlers, as if in despair of bringing them to the ground by the ax,
had girdled them and left them to decay and fall at their leisure.
We went up to one of the houses, before which stood several of the family
attracted to the door by the sight of our steamer. Among them was an
intelligent-looking man, originally from the state of New York, who gave
quick and shrewd answers to our inquiries. He told us of an Indian
settlement about twenty miles further up the St. Clair. Here dwell a
remnant of the Chippewa tribe, collected by the Canadian government, which
has built for them comfortable log-houses with chimneys, furnished them
with horses and neat cattle, and utensils of agriculture, erected a house
of worship, and given them a missionary. "The design of planting them
here," saidth esettler, "was to encourage them to cultivate the soil."
"And what has been the success of the plan?" I asked.
"It has met with no success at all," he answered. "The worst thing that
the government could do for these people is to give them every thing as it
has done, and leave them under no necessity to provide for themselves.
They chop over a little land, an acre or two to a family; their squaws
plant a little corn and a few beans, and this is the extent of their
agriculture. They pass their time in hunting and fishing, or in idleness.
They find deer and bears in the woods behind them, and fish in the St.
Clair before their doors, and they squander their yearly pensions. In one
respect they are just like white men, they will not work if they can live
without."
"What fish do they find in the St. Clair?"
"Various sorts.
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