I have now been nearly two months in Naples, and the zampogne or
bag-pipes, which play about the streets at night, announce the speedy
approach of Christmas, so that I shall soon take my departure for Rome.
* * * * *
I left Naples on the 18th of December and arrived at Rome on the 22d. I am
settled in my old lodgings, No. 29 Piazza di Spagna. Nothing worth
mentioning occurred during the journey.
The fete, of the birth of Christ held at Santa Maria Maggiore on the
evening of the 24th December is of the most splendid description, and
attended by an immense crowd of women. Guns are fired on the moment that
the birth of the Saviour is announced, and this event occurs precisely at
midnight. The Romans seem to rejoice as much at the anniversary of this
event, as if it happened for the first time, and as if immediate temporal
advantage were to be derived from it.
I have mixed a good deal in society in Rome since my return from Naples.
Among other acquaintance I must particularly distinguish Mme Dionigi, a
very celebrated lady, possessing universality of talent.[110] She is well
known all over Italy, for the extent of her litterary attainments, but more
particularly for her proficiency in the fine arts, above all in painting,
of which she is an adept.