CHAPTER V
From Paris to Milan through Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saone, Lyons, Geneva and the
Simplon - Auxerre - Dijon - Napoleon at Chalon-sur-Saone - The army of the
Loire - Macon - French grisettes - Lyons - Monuments and theatricals -
Geneva - Character and opinions of the Genevois - Voltaire's chateau at
Ferney - The chevalier Zadera - From Geneva to Milan - Crossing the
Simplon - Arona - The theatres in Milan - Rossini - Monuments in Milan - Art
encouraged by the French - Mr Eustace's bigotry - Return to Switzerland
- Clarens and Vevey - Lausanne - Society in Lausanne - Return to Paris - The
Louvre stripped - Death of Marshal Ney.
PART II
CHAPTER VI
MARCH-JUNE, 1816
Ball at Cambray, attended by the Duke of Wellington - An Adventure between
Saint Quentin and Compiegne - Paris revisited - Colonel Wardle and Mrs
Wallis - Society in Paris - The Sourds-Muets - The Cemetery of Pere La
Chaise - Apathy of the French people - The priests - Marriage of the Duke de
Berri.
CHAPTER VII
Journey from Paris to Lausanne - Besancon - French refugees in Lausanne
- Francois Lamarque - General Espinassy - Bordas - Gautier - Michau - M. de
Laharpe - Mlle Michaud - Levade, a Protestant minister - Chambery - Aix
- Details about M. de Boigne's career in India - English Toryism and
intolerance - Valley of Maurienne - Passage across Mont Cenis and arrival at
Suza - Turin.
CHAPTER VIII
Journey from Turin to Bologna - Asti - Schiller and Alfieri - Italian
cuisine - The vetturini - Marengo - Piacenza - The Trebbia - Parma - The
Empress Maria Louisa - Modena - Bologna - The University - The Marescalchi
Gallery - Character of the Bolognese.
CHAPTER IX
Journey across the Appennines to Florence - Tuscan idioms and
customs - Monuments and galleries at Florence - The Cascino - Churches -
Theatres - Popularity of the Grand Duke - Napoleon's downfall not
regretted - Academies in Florence.
CHAPTER X
Journey from Florence to Rome - Sienna - Radicofani - Bolsena - Montefiascone
wine - Viterbo - Baccano - The Roman Campagna - The papal douans - Monuments
and Museums in Rome - Intolerance of the Catholic Christians - The Tiber and
the bridges - Character of the Romans - The Palazzi and Ville - Canova's
atelier - Theatricals - An execution in Rome.
CHAPTER XI
From Rome to Naples - Albano - Velletri - The Marshes - Terracina - Mola di
Gaeta - Capua - The streets of Naples - Monuments and Museums - Visit to
Pompeii and ascent to Vesuvius - Dangerous ventures - Puzzuoli and
Baiae - Theatres at Naples - Pulcinello - Return to Rome - Tivoli.
CHAPTER XII
NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816
From Rome to Florence - Sismondi the historian - Reminiscences of
India - Lucca - Princess Elisa Baciqochi - Pisa - The Campo Santo - Leghorn -
Hebrews in Leghorn - Lord Dillon - The story of a lost glove - From Florence
to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis - Lombardy in winter - The
Hospice of Mont Cenis.
PART III
CHAPTER XIII
MARCH-SEPTEMBER, 1817
Journey from Lausanne to Clermont-Ferrand - A wretched conveyance - The
first dish of frogs - Society in Clermont-Ferrand - General de Vergennes -
Cleansing the town - Return to Lausanne - A zealous priest - Journey to Bern
and back to Lausanne - Avenches - Lake Morat - Lake Neufchatel - The Diet in
Bern - Character of the Bernois - A beautiful Milanese lady.
CHAPTER XIV
SEPTEMBER, 1817-APRIL, 1818
Journey from Lausanne to Milan, Florence, Rome and Naples - Residence at
Naples - The theatre of San Carlo - Rossini's operas - Gaming in Naples - The
Lazzaroni - Public writers - Carbonarism - Return to Rome - Christmas eve at
Santa Maria Maggiore - Mme Dionigi - Theatricals - Society in Rome - The papal
government - Lucien Bonaparte, prince of Canino - Louis Napoleon, ex-King of
Holland - Pope Pius VII - Thorwaldsen - Granet - The Holy Week in Rome - The
Duchess of Devonshire - From Rome to Florence by the Perugia road.
CHAPTER XV
APRIL-JULY, 1818
Journey from Florence to Pisa and from thence by the Appennines to
Genoa - Massa - Carrara - Genoa - Monuments and works of art - The
Genoese - Return to Florence - Journey from Florence through Bologna and
Ferrara to Venice - Monument to Ariosto in Ferrara - A description of
Venice - Padua - Vicenza - Verona - Cremona - Return to Milan - The Scala
theatre - Verona again - From Verona to Innspruck.
CHAPTER XVI
JULY-SEPTEMBER, 1818
Innspruck - Tyrol and the Tyrolese - From Innspruck to Munich - Monuments and
churches - Theatricals - Journey from Munich to Vienna on a floss - Trouble
with a passport - Complicated system of Austrian money - Description of
Vienna - The Prater - The theatres - Schiller's Joan of Arc - A
Kinderballet - The young Napoleon at Schoenbrunn - Journey from Vienna to
Prague.
CHAPTER XVII
SEPTEMBER, 1818-MARCH, 1819
The splendid city of Prague - The German expression, "To give the basket" -
Journey from Prague to Dresden - Journey from Dresden to Berlin - A
description of Berlin - The Prussian Army - Theatricals - Peasants talk about
Napoleon - Prussians and French should be allies - Absurd policy of the
English Tories - Journey from Berlin to Dresden - A description of
Dresden - The battle of Dresden in 1813 - Clubs at Dresden - Theatricals -
German beds - Saxon scholars - The picture gallery - Tobacco an ally of
Legitimacy - Saxon women - Meissen - Unjust policy of Europe towards the King
of Saxony.
CHAPTER XVIII
MARCH-APRIL, 1819
Journey from Dresden to Leipzig - The University of Leipzig - Liberal
spirit - The English disliked in Saxony - The English Government hostile to
liberty - Journey to Frankfort - From Frankfort to Metz and Paris - A.F.
Lemaitre - Bon voyage to the Allies - Return to England.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I
MAY-JUNE, 1815
Passage from Ceylon to England - Napoleon's return - Ostend - Bruges - Ghent -
The King of France at Mass - Alost - Bruxelles - The Duke of Wellington very
confident - Feelings of the Belgians - Good conduct of British
troops - Monuments in Bruxelles - Theatricals - Genappe and Namur - Complaints
against the Prussian troops - Mons - Major-General Adam - Tournay - A French
deserter - General Clinton's division - Cavalry review - The Duke de
Berri - Back to Bruxelles - Unjust opinions about Napoleon and the
French - Battle at Ligny - The day of Waterloo in Bruxelles - Visit to the
battlefield - Terrible condition of the wounded - Kindness of the Bruxellois.
BRUXELLES, May 1, 1815.
I proceed to the fulfilment of my promise, to give you from time to time
the details of my tour, and my reflections on the circumstances that occur
at this momentous crisis.
