- ED.
[30] The House In Question Was Built About 1780 By Nicolas De Pigage For
The Rich Merchant, Franz Von Schweizer; Pigage Was The Son Of The
Architect Of King Stanislas At Nancy.
The Schweizer palace became
later on the Hotel de Russie and was demolished about 1890, the
Imperial Post Office having been erected in its place.
The Schweizer
family is now extinct. - ED.
[31] A Casinogesellschaft, still in existence (1908), was founded at
Frankfort in 1805, with the object of uniting the aristocratic
elements of the city, admittance being freely allowed to distinguished
strangers, in particular to the envoys of the Bundestag. The
Gesellschaft or club occupied spacious rooms in the house of the
once famous tapissier and decorator Major Rumpf, grandfather of the
German sculptor of the same name. That building, situated at the
corner of the Rossmarkt, was demolished about 1880. - ED.
CHAPTER III
From Bruxelles to Paris - Restoration of Louis XVIII - The officers of the
allied armies - The Palais Royal - The Louvre - Protest of the author against
the proposed despoiling of the French Museums - Unjust strictures against
Napoleon's military policy - The cant about revolutionary robberies - The
Grand Opera - Monuments in Paris - The Champs Elysees - Saint-Cloud - The Hotel
des Invalides - The Luxembourg - General Labedoyere - Priests and
emigrants - Prussian Plunder - Handsome behaviour of the English officers -
Reminiscences of Eton - Versailles.
PARIS, August 3rd.
Here I am in Paris. I left Bruxelles the 29th July, stopped one night at
Mons and passing thro' Valenciennes, Peronne and St Quentin arrived here on
the third day. The villages and towns on the road had been pretty well
stripped of eatables by the Allied army, as well as by the French, so that
we did not meet with the best fare. In every village the white flag was
displayed by way of propitiating the clemency of the Allies and averting
plunder.
August 7th.
I have put up at the Hotel de Cahors, Rue de Richelieu, where I pay five
francs per diem for a single room; such is the dearness of lodgings at this
moment. It is well furnished, however, with sofas, commodes, mirrors and a
handsome clock and is very spacious withal, there being an alcove for the
bed. This situation is extremely convenient, being close to the Palais
Royal, Rue St Honore, Theatre Francais, Louvre and the Tuileries on one
side, and to the Grand Opera, the Theatre Feydeau, the Italian Opera and
the Boulevards on the other. The National Library is not many yards distant
from my hotel, and a few yards from that en face is the Grand Opera house
or Academie Royale de Musique.
This city is filled with officers and travellers of all kinds who have
followed the army. The House of Legislature of the Hundred Days, - as it is
the fashion to style Napoleon's last reign - dissolved themselves on the
demand of a million of francs as a war contribution made by Marshall
Blucher. Louis XVIII has been hustled into Paris, and now occupies the
throne of his ancestors under the protection of a million of foreign
bayonets, and the banniere des Lis has replaced the tricolor on the
castle of the Tuileries. A detachment of the British army occupies
Montmartre, where the British flag is flying, and in the Champs Elysees and
Bois de Boulogne are encamped several brigades of English and Hanoverians.
The Sovereigns of Russia, Austria and Prussia are expected and then it is
said that the fate of France will be decided. The Army of the Loire has at
length made its submission to the King, after stipulating but in vain for
the beloved tricolor. Report says it is to be immediately dissolved and a
new army raised with more legitimate inclinations. Should the King accede
to this, France will be completely disarmed and at the mercy of the Allies,
and the King himself a state prisoner. The entrance into Paris, thro' the
Faubourg St Denis, does not give to the stranger who arrives there for the
first time a great idea of the magnificence of Paris; he should enter by
the Avenue de Neuilly or by the Porte St Antoine, both of which are very
striking and superb.
Now you must not expect that I shall or can give you a description of all
the fine things that I have seen or am about to see, for they have been so
often described before that it would be a perfect waste of time, and I can
do better in referring you at once to the Guide des Voyageurs a Paris; so
that I shall content myself with merely indicating these objects which make
the most impression on me.
My first visit was, as you will have no doubt guessed, to the Palais Royal:
there I breakfasted, there I dined, and there I passed the whole day
without the least ennui. It is a world in itself. It swarms at present
with officers of the Allied army. The variety of uniforms adds to the
splendour and novelty of the scene. The restaurants and cafes are filled
with them. The Palais Royal is certainly the temple of animal
gratification, the paradise of gastronomes. The officers are indulging in
all sorts of luxury, revelling in Champaign and Burgundy, in all the
pleasures of the belly, as well as in iis quae sub ventre sunt. 'Twill be
a famous harvest for the restaurateurs and for the Cyprians who parade up
and down the Arcades, sure of a constant succession of suitors. In fact,
whatever be the taste of a man, whether sensual or intellectual or both, he
can gratify himself here without moving out of the precincts of the Palais
Royal. Here are cafes, restaurants, shops of all kinds whose display of
clocks, jewellery, stuffs, silks, merchandize from all parts of the world,
is most brilliant and dazzling; here you find reading-rooms where
newspapers, reviews and pamphlets of all tongues, nations and languages are
to be met with; here are museums of paintings, statues, plans in relief,
cosmoramas; here are libraries, gaming houses, houses of fair reception;
cellars where music, dancing and all kinds of orgies are carried on;
exhibitions of all sorts, learned pigs, dancing dogs, military canary
birds, hermaphrodites, giants, dwarf jugglers from Hindostan, catawbas from
America, serpents from Java, and crocodiles from the Nile.
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