He Acquiesced In My Argument, But
Inserted My Explanation On The Passport.
At half a quarter of a mile beyond
Mittenwald I met the raft just about to get under weigh
At eleven o'clock
a.m. This raft is about as long as the length of a thirty-six gun frigate,
and formed of spars fastened together; on this is a platform about one and
a half feet high. The Isar begins its course close to Mittenwald, and the
place on which the raft stood, previous to departure, was very shallow; but
water was quickly let in from sluices to float the raft, and off we set
with a cargo of peasants, male and female, and merchandise bound for
Munich. As the river Isar rushes between immense mountains, and forms a
continual descent until the plains of Bavaria open to view, you may
conceive with what rapidity we went. We encountered several falls of water
of two, three, four and sometimes five feet which we had to shoot, which
no boat could possibly do without being upset. The lower part of the raft
was frequently under water in making these shoots and we were obliged to
hold on fast to our seats to prevent being jerked off. Nothing can be more
romantic and picturesque than this journey, and there is something aweful
in shooting these falls; these rafts are, however, so solidly constructed
that there is no danger whatever. They can neither sink nor upset. We
arrived and halted the evening at Toelz, a large village or town on the
right bank of the Isar. What gives to Toelz a remarkably singular appearance
is, that on a height at a short distance from the town, and hanging
abruptly over the river, you perceive several figures in wood, larger than
the life, which figures form groups, representing the whole history of the
passion of Jesus Christ. At a short distance, if you are not prepared for
this, you suppose that they are real men, and that a procession or
execution is going forward. On landing I immediately ascended this hill in
order to observe this curiosity, and there I beheld the following groups,
first: Christ in the midst of his disciples preaching; secondly: the
disciples asleep in a cave, and Christ watching and praying; next was Judas
betraying Christ to the soldiery; then the judgment of Christ before
Pilate; then Christ bearing his cross to the place of execution; and lastly
the crucifixion on Mount Calvary. The ground is curiously laid out so as to
represent, as much as possible, the ground in the environs of Jerusalem.
Toelz is a pretty village, but contains nothing more remarkable than the
above groups.
The next day at twelve o'clock we perceived the spires of Munich, and at
two anchored close to one of the bridges from whence, having hired a
wheelbarrow to trundle my portmanteau, I repaired to the inn called the
Golden Cross - Zum goldenen Kreutz. At Toelz the Rhetian Alps recede from
the view; the landscape then presents a sloping plain which is perfectly
level within four miles of Munich.
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