After Waterloo: Reminiscences Of European Travel 1815-1819, By Major W. E Frye













































































































 -  Besides the buildings above ground, here are cellars
under ground intended as quarters for the guards and capable of holding - Page 188
After Waterloo: Reminiscences Of European Travel 1815-1819, By Major W. E Frye - Page 188 of 291 - First - Home

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Besides The Buildings Above Ground, Here Are Cellars Under Ground Intended As Quarters For The Guards And Capable Of Holding Three Thousand Men, As Well As Stabling For Horses.

In the inclosure of and forming part of this Villa, which covers a circumference of seven miles, were a

Gymnasium, baths, temples, a school of philosophers, tanks, a theatre, &c. The greatest part of these buildings are choaked up and covered with earth, since it is by excavation alone that what does appear was brought to light. It was by excavation that a man discovered a large hall wherein he found the nine beautiful statues of the Muses, which now adorn the Museum of the Vatican; and no doubt if the Roman government would recommence the excavations many more valuables might be found. Hadrian's villa has already furnished many a statue, column and pilaster to the Museums, churches and Palaces of Rome.

I was much more gratified in beholding the remains of this Villa than in visiting Tivoli and I remained here several hours. At four o'clock in the afternoon I started on my return to Rome; it was imprudent not to have started sooner, as it is always dangerous to be outside the walls of Rome after dark, in consequence of the brigands who infest the environs and sometimes come close to the walls of the city.

I reached my hotel in Rome at nine o'clock, one hour and half after dark, but had the good fortune to meet nobody. The Roman peasantry generally go armed and those who feed cattle in the fields of the Campagna or have any labour to perform there never sleep there on account of the mal'aria.

[93] Horace, Epist., II, 1, 156. - ED.

[94] Horace, Sat., i, 5, 26. - ED.

[95] A carlino is of the value of half a franc or five pence English. The accounts in Naples are kept in ducati, carlini and grani. Ten carlini make a ducat and ten grani (a copper coin) make a carlino. A grano is a sou French in value. The ducato is an imaginary coin. The soudo Napoletano, a handsome silver coin of the size of an ecu de six francs, is equal to twelve carlini.

[96] Not one of these vases was found at Pompeii. - ED.

[97] Horace, Carm., II, 1, 7. - ED.

[98] Virgil, Aen., VI, 264. - ED.

[99] Virgil, Aen., VI, 129. - ED.

CHAPTER XII

NOVEMBER-DECEMBER, 1816

From Rome to Florence - Sismondi the historian - Reminiscences of India - Lucca - Princess Elisa Baciocchi - Pisa - The Campo Santo - Leghorn - Hebrews in Leghorn - Lord Dillon - The story of a lost glove - From Florence to Lausanne by Milan, Turin and across Mont Cenis - Lombardy in winter - The Hospice of Mont Cenis.

FLORENCE, Novr. 20th.

I bade adieu to Rome on the 28th October and returned here by the same road I went, viz., by Radicofani and Sienna. I arrived here after a journey of six days, having been detained one day at Aquapendente on account of the swelling of the waters.

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