On This Account I Prefer Germany As A Winter Residence,
For I Think There Is No Sensation So Disagreeable As To Feel Cold In The
House.
In the open air I do not care a fig for it, for my cloak lined with
bearskin protects me amply.
The climate here in winter is a dry cold, which
is much more salubrious and agreeable to me than the changeable, humid
climate of Great Britain, where, though the cold is not so great, it is
much more severely felt.
[126] Tacitus, Germania, C, VIII. - ED.
[127] Martin Sherlock (d. 1797), author of Lettres d'un voyageur anglais,
which were published in Paris 1779 and, the year after, in London.
[128] Matthew Gregory Lewis, 1775-1818, published Ambrosio or the Monk in
1795. - ED.
CHAPTER XVIII
MARCH-APRIL 1819
Journey from Dresden to Leipzig - The University of Leipzig - Liberal
spirit - The English disliked in Saxony - The English Government hostile to
liberty - Journey to Frankfort - From Frankfort to Metz and Paris - A.F.
Lemaitre - Bon voyage to the Allies - Return to England.
I left Dresden on the 2nd March, 1819. A Landkutsche conveyed me as far
as Leipzig in a day and half, stopping the first night at Oschaly, where
there is a good inn. At Leipzig I put up at the Hotel de Baviere and
remained five days. Leipzig is a fine old Gothic city. It is, as everybody
knows, famous for its University and its Fair, which is held twice a year,
in spring and in autumn, and which is the greatest mart for books perhaps
in the world. The University of Leipzig and indeed all the Universities of
Germany are in bad repute among the Obscuranten and eteignoirs of the
day, on account of the liberal ideas professed by the teachers and
scholars. In the University of Leipzig every thing may be learned by those
who chuse to apply, but those who prefer remaining idle may do so, as there
is less compulsion than at the English Universities. There is however such
a national enthusiasm for learning, in all parts of Germany, that the most
careless and ill-disposed youth would never be about to support the
ridicule of his fellow students were he backward in obtaining prizes, but
after all I have heard of the dissipation, lawlessness, and want of
discipline at Leipzig, I can safely affirm that all these stories are
grossly exaggerated: and I fancy there is little other dissipation going
forward than amours with Stubenmaedchen. I do not hear of any drunkenness,
gaming or horse racing; nor do the professors themselves, who ought to be
the best judges of what is going on, complain of the insubordination of
their pupils. But what I principally admire in this, and indeed in other
German Universities, is that there are no distinctions of rank, such as
gold tassels, etc., no servile attention paid to sprigs of nobility, as in
the Universities in England, where the Heads of Colleges and Fellows are
singularly condescending to the son of a Peer, a Minister, or a Bishop.
Perfect equality prevails in Leipzig and the son of the proudest
Reichsgraf is allowed no more priviledges than the son of a barber; nor
do the professors make the least difference between them. In fact, in spite
of the vulgar belief in England respecting the hauteur of the German
noblesse and the vassalage of the other classes, I must say, from
experience, that the German nobility show far less hauteur and have in
general more really liberal ideas than most part of our English
aristocracy, and a German burgher or shop-keeper would disdain to cringe
before a nobleman as many shopkeepers, aye, and even gentry, are sometimes
known to do in England. Another circumstance too proves on how much more
liberal a footing Leipzig and other German Universities are than our
English ones, which is, that in England none but those who profess the
religion of the Church of England, or conform to its ritual, are admitted;
but here all sects are tolerated and admitted, and all live in perfect
harmony with each other. The students are at liberty to chuse their place
of worship and the sermons that are preached in the Catholic as well as the
Protestant churches are such as sensible men of whatever opinion might
listen to with profit, and without being shocked by absurdities or
intolerant ideas.
Mysteries, theologic sophistry and politics are carefully avoided, and a
pure morality, a simple theosophy, comprehensible to the meanest
understanding, pervades these simple discourses. The consequence of this
toleration and liberal spirit is that an union between the Lutheran and
Calvinistic churches has been effected.
I met a number of mercantile people at the table d'hote at Leipzig in the
Hotel de Baviere, and I entered a good deal into conversation with them;
but when they discovered I was an Englishman, I could see a sudden coldness
and restraint in their demeanour, for we are very unpopular in Germany,
owing to the conduct of our Cabinet, and they have a great distrust of us.
The Saxons complain terribly of our Government for sanctioning the
dismemberment of their country and of the insolent letter of Castlereagh.
It is singular enough that Saxony is the only country where English goods
are allowed to be imported free of duty; but our great and good ally the
King of Prussia (as these goods must pass thro' his territory) has imposed
a tolerably heavy transit duty. I am glad of it; this is as it should be. I
rejoice at any obstacles that are put to British commerce; I rejoice when I
hear of our merchants suffering and I quite delight to hear of a
bankruptcy. They, the English merchants, contributed with their gold to
uphold the corrupt system of Pitt and to carry on unjust, unreasonable and
liberticide wars. Yes! it is perfectly fit and proper that the despotic
governments they have contributed to restore should make them feel their
gratitude.
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