Refusal of his own, by saying it is the WILL of the King, my master,
when everybody knows that he has neither will nor memory. Much the
same use is made of him as, I have observed, some termagant wives
make of their husbands; they would dwell on the necessity of obeying
their husbands, poor passive souls, who never were allowed TO WILL,
when they wanted to conceal their own tyranny.
A story is told here of the King's formerly making a dog counsellor
of state, because when the dog, accustomed to eat at the royal
table, snatched a piece of meat off an old officer's plate, he
reproved him jocosely, saying that he, monsieur le chien, had not
the privilege of dining with his majesty, a privilege annexed to
this distinction.
The burning of the palace was, in fact, a fortunate circumstance, as
it afforded a pretext for reducing the establishment of the
household, which was far too great for the revenue of the Crown.
The Prince Royal, at present, runs into the opposite extreme; and
the formality, if not the parsimony, of the court, seems to extend
to all the other branches of society, which I had an opportunity of
observing; though hospitality still characterises their intercourse
with strangers.
But let me now stop; I may be a little partial, and view everything
with the jaundiced eye of melancholy - for I am sad - and have cause.
God bless you!
LETTER XXI.
I have seen Count Bernstorff; and his conversation confirms me in
the opinion I had previously formed of him; I mean, since my arrival
at Copenhagen. He is a worthy man, a little vain of his virtue a la
Necker; and more anxious not to do wrong, that is to avoid blame,
than desirous of doing good; especially if any particular good
demands a change. Prudence, in short, seems to be the basis of his
character; and, from the tenor of the Government, I should think
inclining to that cautious circumspection which treads on the heels
of timidity. He has considerable information, and some finesse; or
he could not be a Minister. Determined not to risk his popularity,
for he is tenderly careful of his reputation, he will never
gloriously fail like Struensee, or disturb, with the energy of
genius, the stagnant state of the public mind.
I suppose that Lavater, whom he invited to visit him two years ago -
some say to fix the principles of the Christian religion firmly in
the Prince Royal's mind, found lines in his face to prove him a
statesman of the first order; because he has a knack at seeing a
great character in the countenances of men in exalted stations, who
have noticed him or his works. Besides, the Count's sentiments
relative to the French Revolution, agreeing with Lavater's, must
have ensured his applause.
The Danes, in general, seem extremely averse to innovation, and if
happiness only consist in opinion, they are the happiest people in
the world; for I never saw any so well satisfied with their own
situation. Yet the climate appears to be very disagreeable, the
weather being dry and sultry, or moist and cold; the atmosphere
never having that sharp, bracing purity, which in Norway prepares
you to brave its rigours. I do not hear the inhabitants of this
place talk with delight of the winter, which is the constant theme
of the Norwegians; on the contrary, they seem to dread its
comfortless inclemency.
The ramparts are pleasant, and must have been much more so before
the fire, the walkers not being annoyed by the clouds of dust which,
at present, the slightest wind wafts from the ruins. The windmills,
and the comfortable houses contiguous, belonging to the millers, as
well as the appearance of the spacious barracks for the soldiers and
sailors, tend to render this walk more agreeable. The view of the
country has not much to recommend it to notice but its extent and
cultivation: yet as the eye always delights to dwell on verdant
plains, especially when we are resident in a great city, these shady
walks should be reckoned amongst the advantages procured by the
Government for the inhabitants. I like them better than the Royal
Gardens, also open to the public, because the latter seem sunk in
the heart of the city, to concentrate its fogs.
The canals which intersect the streets are equally convenient and
wholesome; but the view of the sea commanded by the town had little
to interest me whilst the remembrance of the various bold and
picturesque shores I had seen was fresh in my memory. Still the
opulent inhabitants, who seldom go abroad, must find the spots were
they fix their country seats much pleasanter on account of the
vicinity of the ocean.
One of the best streets in Copenhagen is almost filled with
hospitals, erected by the Government, and, I am assured, as well
regulated as institutions of this kind are in any country; but
whether hospitals or workhouses are anywhere superintended with
sufficient humanity I have frequently had reason to doubt.
The autumn is so uncommonly fine that I am unwilling to put off my
journey to Hamburg much longer, lest the weather should alter
suddenly, and the chilly harbingers of winter catch me here, where I
have nothing now to detain me but the hospitality of the families to
whom I had recommendatory letters. I lodged at an hotel situated in
a large open square, where the troops exercise and the market is
kept. My apartments were very good; and on account of the fire I
was told that I should be charged very high; yet, paying my bill
just now, I find the demands much lower in proportion than in
Norway, though my dinners were in every respect better.
