This palace, now deserted, displays a
gloomy kind of grandeur throughout, for the silence of spacious
apartments always makes itself to be felt; I at least feel it, and I
listen for the sound of my footsteps as I have done at midnight to
the ticking of the death-watch, encouraging a kind of fanciful
superstition. Every object carried me back to past times, and
impressed the manners of the age forcibly on my mind. In this point
of view the preservation of old palaces and their tarnished
furniture is useful, for they may be considered as historical
documents.
The vacuum left by departed greatness was everywhere observable,
whilst the battles and processions portrayed on the walls told you
who had here excited revelry after retiring from slaughter, or
dismissed pageantry in search of pleasure. It seemed a vast tomb
full of the shadowy phantoms of those who had played or toiled their
hour out and sunk behind the tapestry which celebrated the conquests
of love or war. Could they be no more - to whom my imagination thus
gave life? Could the thoughts, of which there remained so many
vestiges, have vanished quite away? And these beings, composed of
such noble materials of thinking and feeling, have they only melted
into the elements to keep in motion the grand mass of life? It
cannot be! - as easily could I believe that the large silver lions at
the top of the banqueting room thought and reasoned. But avaunt! ye
waking dreams! yet I cannot describe the curiosities to you.
There were cabinets full of baubles and gems, and swords which must
have been wielded by giant's hand. The coronation ornaments wait
quietly here till wanted, and the wardrobe exhibits the vestments
which formerly graced these shows. It is a pity they do not lend
them to the actors, instead of allowing them to perish ingloriously.
I have not visited any other palace, excepting Hirsholm, the gardens
of which are laid out with taste, and command the finest views the
country affords. As they are in the modern and English style, I
thought I was following the footsteps of Matilda, who wished to
multiply around her the images of her beloved country. I was also
gratified by the sight of a Norwegian landscape in miniature, which
with great propriety makes a part of the Danish King's garden. The
cottage is well imitated, and the whole has a pleasing effect,
particularly so to me who love Norway - its peaceful farms and
spacious wilds.
The public library consists of a collection much larger than I
expected to see; and it is well arranged. Of the value of the
Icelandic manuscripts I could not form a judgment, though the
alphabet of some of them amused me, by showing what immense labour
men will submit to, in order to transmit their ideas to posterity.
I have sometimes thought it a great misfortune for individuals to
acquire a certain delicacy of sentiment, which often makes them
weary of the common occurrences of life; yet it is this very
delicacy of feeling and thinking which probably has produced most of
the performances that have benefited mankind. It might with
propriety, perhaps, be termed the malady of genius; the cause of
that characteristic melancholy which "grows with its growth, and
strengthens with its strength."
There are some good pictures in the royal museum. Do not start, I
am not going to trouble you with a dull catalogue, or stupid
criticisms on masters to whom time has assigned their just niche in
the temple of fame; had there been any by living artists of this
country, I should have noticed them, as making a part of the
sketches I am drawing of the present state of the place. The good
pictures were mixed indiscriminately with the bad ones, in order to
assort the frames. The same fault is conspicuous in the new
splendid gallery forming at Paris; though it seems an obvious
thought that a school for artists ought to be arranged in such a
manner, as to show the progressive discoveries and improvements in
the art.
A collection of the dresses, arms, and implements of the Laplanders
attracted my attention, displaying that first species of ingenuity
which is rather a proof of patient perseverance, than comprehension
of mind. The specimens of natural history, and curiosities of art,
were likewise huddled together without that scientific order which
alone renders them useful; but this may partly have been occasioned
by the hasty manner in which they were removed from the palace when
in flames.
There are some respectable men of science here, but few literary
characters, and fewer artists. They want encouragement, and will
continue, I fear, from the present appearance of things, to languish
unnoticed a long time; for neither the vanity of wealth, nor the
enterprising spirit of commerce, has yet thrown a glance that way.
Besides, the Prince Royal, determined to be economical, almost
descends to parsimony; and perhaps depresses his subjects, by
labouring not to oppress them; for his intentions always seem to be
good - yet nothing can give a more forcible idea of the dulness which
eats away all activity of mind, than the insipid routine of a court,
without magnificence or elegance.
The Prince, from what I can now collect, has very moderate
abilities; yet is so well disposed, that Count Bernstorff finds him
as tractable as he could wish; for I consider the Count as the real
sovereign, scarcely behind the curtain; the Prince having none of
that obstinate self-sufficiency of youth, so often the forerunner of
decision of character. He and the Princess his wife, dine every day
with the King, to save the expense of two tables.
