When nothing like cultivation attached
them to the soil, especially when we take into the view that the
adventuring spirit, common to man, is naturally stronger and more
general during the infancy of society. The conduct of the followers
of Mahomet, and the crusaders, will sufficiently corroborate my
assertion.
Approaching nearer to Stromstad, the appearance of the town proved
to be quite in character with the country we had just passed
through. I hesitated to use the word country, yet could not find
another; still it would sound absurd to talk of fields of rocks.
The town was built on and under them. Three or four weather-beaten
trees were shrinking from the wind, and the grass grew so sparingly
that I could not avoid thinking Dr. Johnson's hyperbolical assertion
"that the man merited well of his country who made a few blades of
grass grow where they never grew before," might here have been
uttered with strict propriety. The steeple likewise towered aloft,
for what is a church, even amongst the Lutherans, without a steeple?
But to prevent mischief in such an exposed situation, it is wisely
placed on a rock at some distance not to endanger the roof of the
church.
Rambling about, I saw the door open, and entered, when to my great
surprise I found the clergyman reading prayers, with only the clerk
attending. I instantly thought of Swift's "Dearly beloved Roger,"
but on inquiry I learnt that some one had died that morning, and in
Sweden it is customary to pray for the dead.
The sun, who I suspected never dared to shine, began now to convince
me that he came forth only to torment; for though the wind was still
cutting, the rocks became intolerably warm under my feet, whilst the
herring effluvia, which I before found so very offensive, once more
assailed me. I hastened back to the house of a merchant, the little
sovereign of the place, because he was by far the richest, though
not the mayor.
Here we were most hospitably received, and introduced to a very fine
and numerous family. I have before mentioned to you the lilies of
the north, I might have added, water lilies, for the complexion of
many, even of the young women, seem to be bleached on the bosom of
snow. But in this youthful circle the roses bloomed with all their
wonted freshness, and I wondered from whence the fire was stolen
which sparkled in their fine blue eyes.
Here we slept; and I rose early in the morning to prepare for my
little voyage to Norway. I had determined to go by water, and was
to leave my companions behind; but not getting a boat immediately,
and the wind being high and unfavourable, I was told that it was not
safe to go to sea during such boisterous weather; I was, therefore,
obliged to wait for the morrow, and had the present day on my hands,
which I feared would be irksome, because the family, who possessed
about a dozen French words amongst them and not an English phrase,
were anxious to amuse me, and would not let me remain alone in my
room.
