Enough, you will say, of inanimate nature and of brutes, to use the
lordly phrase of man; let me hear something of the inhabitants.
The gentleman with whom I had business is the Mayor of Tonsberg. He
speaks English intelligibly, and, having a sound understanding, I
was sorry that his numerous occupations prevented my gaining as much
information from him as I could have drawn forth had we frequently
conversed. The people of the town, as far as I had an opportunity
of knowing their sentiments, are extremely well satisfied with his
manner of discharging his office. He has a degree of information
and good sense which excites respect, whilst a cheerfulness, almost
amounting to gaiety, enables him to reconcile differences and keep
his neighbours in good humour. "I lost my horse," said a woman to
me, "but ever since, when I want to send to the mill, or go out, the
Mayor lends me one. He scolds if I do not come for it."
A criminal was branded, during my stay here, for the third offence;
but the relief he received made him declare that the judge was one
of the best men in the world.
I sent this wretch a trifle, at different times, to take with him
into slavery. As it was more than he expected, he wished very much
to see me, and this wish brought to my remembrance an anecdote I
heard when I was in Lisbon.
A wretch who had been imprisoned several years, during which period
lamps had been put up, was at last condemned to a cruel death, yet,
in his way to execution, he only wished for one night's respite to
see the city lighted.
Having dined in company at the mayor's I was invited with his family
to spend the day at one of the richest merchant's houses. Though I
could not speak Danish I knew that I could see a great deal; yes, I
am persuaded that I have formed a very just opinion of the character
of the Norwegians, without being able to hold converse with them.
I had expected to meet some company, yet was a little disconcerted
at being ushered into an apartment full of well dressed people, and
glancing my eyes round they rested on several very pretty faces.
Rosy cheeks, sparkling eyes, and light brown or golden locks; for I
never saw so much hair with a yellow cast, and, with their fine
complexions, it looked very becoming.
These women seem a mixture of indolence and vivacity; they scarcely
ever walk out, and were astonished that I should for pleasure, yet
they are immoderately fond of dancing. Unaffected in their manners,
if they have no pretensions to elegance, simplicity often produces a
gracefulness of deportment, when they are animated by a particular
desire to please, which was the case at present. The solitariness
of my situation, which they thought terrible, interested them very
much in my favour. They gathered round me, sung to me, and one of
the prettiest, to whom I gave my hand with some degree of
cordiality, to meet the glance of her eyes, kissed me very
affectionately.
At dinner, which was conducted with great hospitality, though we
remained at table too long, they sung several songs, and, amongst
the rest, translations of some patriotic French ones. As the
evening advanced they became playful, and we kept up a sort of
conversation of gestures. As their minds were totally uncultivated
I did not lose much, perhaps gained, by not being able to understand
them; for fancy probably filled up, more to their advantage, the
void in the picture. Be that as it may, they excited my sympathy,
and I was very much flattered when I was told the next day that they
said it was a pleasure to look at me, I appeared so good-natured.
The men were generally captains of ships. Several spoke English
very tolerably, but they were merely matter-of-fact men, confined to
a very narrow circle of observation. I found it difficult to obtain
from them any information respecting their own country, when the
fumes of tobacco did not keep me at a distance.
I was invited to partake of some other feasts, and always had to
complain of the quantity of provision and the length of time taken
to consume it; for it would not have been proper to have said
devour, all went on so fair and softly. The servants wait as slowly
as their mistresses carve.
The young women here, as well as in Sweden, have commonly bad teeth,
which I attribute to the same causes. They are fond of finery, but
do not pay the necessary attention to their persons, to render
beauty less transient than a flower, and that interesting expression
which sentiment and accomplishments give seldom supplies its place.
The servants have, likewise, an inferior sort of food here, but
their masters are not allowed to strike them with impunity. I might
have added mistresses, for it was a complaint of this kind brought
before the mayor which led me to a knowledge of the fact.
The wages are low, which is particularly unjust, because the price
of clothes is much higher than that of provision. A young woman,
who is wet nurse to the mistress of the inn where I lodge, receives
only twelve dollars a year, and pays ten for the nursing of her own
child. The father had run away to get clear of the expense.