A Tramp Abroad By Mark Twain






































































































 - 

While I was feeling these things, I was groping,
without knowing it, toward an understanding of what the
spell is - Page 296
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While I Was Feeling These Things, I Was Groping, Without Knowing It, Toward An Understanding Of What The Spell Is

Which people find in the Alps, and in no other mountains - that strange, deep, nameless influence, which, once felt, cannot

Be forgotten - once felt, leaves always behind it a restless longing to feel it again - a longing which is like homesickness; a grieving, haunting yearning which will plead, implore, and persecute till it has its will. I met dozens of people, imaginative and unimaginative, cultivated and uncultivated, who had come from far countries and roamed through the Swiss Alps year after year - they could not explain why. They had come first, they said, out of idle curiosity, because everybody talked about it; they had come since because they could not help it, and they should keep on coming, while they lived, for the same reason; they had tried to break their chains and stay away, but it was futile; now, they had no desire to break them. Others came nearer formulating what they felt; they said they could find perfect rest and peace nowhere else when they were troubled: all frets and worries and chafings sank to sleep in the presence of the benignant serenity of the Alps; the Great Spirit of the Mountain breathed his own peace upon their hurt minds and sore hearts, and healed them; they could not think base thoughts or do mean and sordid things here, before the visible throne of God.

Down the road a piece was a Kursaal - whatever that may be - and we joined the human tide to see what sort of enjoyment it might afford.

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