I Was Very Glad To Get Out Of The House With My
Throat Uncut.
Sestri di Levante is a little town pleasantly situated on the
seaside; but has not the conveniency of a harbour.
The fish taken
here is mostly carried to Genoa. This is likewise the market for
their oil, and the paste called macaroni, of which they make a
good quantity.
Next day, we skirted a very barren coast, consisting of almost
perpendicular rocks, on the faces of which, however, we saw many
peasants' houses and hanging terraces for vines, made by dint of
incredible labour. In the afternoon, we entered by the Porti di
Venere into the bay, or gulf of Spetia or Spezza, which was the
Portus Lunae of the ancients. This bay, at the mouth of which
lies the island Palmaria, forms a most noble and secure harbour,
capacious enough to contain all the navies in Christendom. The
entrance on one side is defended by a small fort built above the
town of Porto Venere, which is a very poor place. Farther in
there is a battery of about twenty guns; and on the right hand,
opposite to Porto Venere, is a block-house, founded on a rock in
the sea. At the bottom of the bay is the town of Spetia on the
left, and on the right that of Lerici, defended by a castle of
very little strength or consequence. The whole bay is surrounded
with plantations of olives and oranges, and makes a very
delightful appearance. In case of a war, this would be an
admirable station for a British squadron, as it lies so near
Genoa and Leghorn; and has a double entrance, by means of which
the cruisers could sail in and out continually, which way soever
the wind might chance to sit. I am sure the fortifications would
give very little disturbance.
At the post-house in Lerici, the accommodation is intolerable. We
were almost poisoned at supper. I found the place where I was to
lie so close and confined, that I could not breathe in it, and
therefore lay all night in an outward room upon four chairs, with
a leather portmanteau for my pillow. For this entertainment I
payed very near a loui'dore. Such bad accommodation is the less
excusable, as the fellow has a great deal of business, this being
a great thoroughfare for travellers going into Italy, or
returning from thence.
I might have saved some money by prosecuting my voyage directly
by sea to Leghorn: but, by this time, we were all heartily tired
of the water, the business then was to travel by land to
Florence, by the way of Pisa, which is seven posts distant from
Lerici. Those who have not their own carriage must either hire
chaises to perform the whole journey, or travel by way of
cambiatura, which is that of changing the chaises every post, as
the custom is in England. In this case the great inconvenience
arises from your being obliged to shift your baggage every post.
The chaise or calesse of this country, is a wretched machine with
two wheels, as uneasy as a common cart, being indeed no other
than what we should call in England a very ill-contrived one-horse
chair, narrow, naked, shattered and shabby. For this
vehicle and two horses you pay at the rate of eight paoli a
stage, or four shillings sterling; and the postilion expects two
paoli for his gratification: so that every eight miles cost about
five shillings, and four only, if you travel in your own
carriage, as in that case you pay no more than at the rate of
three paoli a horse.
About three miles from Lerici, we crossed the Magra, which
appeared as a rivulet almost dry, and in half a mile farther
arrived at Sarzana, a small town at the extremity of the Genoese
territories, where we changed horses. Then entering the
principalities of Massa and Carrara, belonging to the duke of
Modena, we passed Lavenza, which seems to be a decayed fort with
a small garrison, and dined at Massa, which is an agreeable
little town, where the old dutchess of Modena resides.
Notwithstanding all the expedition we could make, it was dark
before we passed the Cerchio, which is an inconsiderable stream
in the neighbourhood of Pisa, where we arrived about eight in the
evening.
The country from Sarzana to the frontiers of Tuscany is a narrow
plain, bounded on the right by the sea, and on the left by the
Apennine mountains. It is well cultivated and inclosed,
consisting of meadow-ground, corn fields, plantations of olives;
and the trees that form the hedge-rows serve as so many props to
the vines, which are twisted round them, and continued from one
to another. After entering the dominions of Tuscany, we travelled
through a noble forest of oak-trees of a considerable extent,
which would have appeared much more agreeable, had we not been
benighted and apprehensive of robbers. The last post but one in
this days journey, is at the little town of Viareggio, a kind of
sea-port on the Mediterranean, belonging to Lucia. The roads are
indifferent, and the accommodation is execrable. I was glad to
find myself housed in a very good inn at Pisa, where I promised
myself a good night's rest, and was not disappointed. I heartily
wish you the same pleasure, and am very sincerely - Yours.
LETTER XXVII
NICE, January 28, 1765.
DEAR SIR, - Pisa is a fine old city that strikes you with the same
veneration you would feel at sight of an antient temple which
bears the marks of decay, without being absolutely dilapidated.
The houses are well built, the streets open, straight, and well
paved; the shops well furnished; and the markets well supplied:
there are some elegant palaces, designed by great masters. The
churches are built with taste, and tolerably ornamented. There is
a beautiful wharf of freestone on each side of the river Arno,
which runs through the city, and three bridges thrown over it, of
which that in the middle is of marble, a pretty piece of
architecture:
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