St. Remo Is A Pretty Considerable Town, Well-Built Upon The
Declivity Of A Gently Rising Hill, And Has A Harbour Capable Of
Receiving Small Vessels, A Good Number Of Which Are Built Upon
The Beach:
But ships of any burden are obliged to anchor in the
bay, which is far from being secure.
The people of St. Remo form
a small republic, which is subject to Genoa.
They enjoyed particular privileges, till the year 1753, when in
consequence of a new gabelle upon salt, they revolted: but this
effort in behalf of liberty did not succeed. They were soon
reduced by the Genoese, who deprived them of all their
privileges, and built a fort by the sea-side, which serves the
double purpose of defending the harbour and over-awing the town.
The garrison at present does not exceed two hundred men. The
inhabitants are said to have lately sent a deputation to
Ratisbon, to crave the protection of the diet of the empire.
There is very little plain ground in this neighbourhood; but the
hills are covered with oranges, lemons, pomegranates, and olives,
which produce a considerable traffic in fine fruit and excellent
oil. The women of St. Remo are much more handsome and better
tempered than those of Provence. They have in general good eyes,
with open ingenuous countenances. Their dress, though remarkable,
I cannot describe: but upon the whole, they put me in mind of
some portraits I have seen, representing the females of Georgia
and Mingrelia.
On the third day, the wind being abated, though still
unfavourable, we reimbarked and rowed along shore, passing by
Porto-mauricio, and Oneglia; then turning the promontory called
Capo di Melle, we proceeded by Albenga, Finale, and many other
places of inferior note. Portomauricio is seated on a rock washed
by the sea, but indifferently fortified, with an inconsiderable
harbour, which none but very small vessels can enter. About two
miles to the eastward is Oneglia, a small town with
fortifications, lying along the open beach, and belonging to the
king of Sardinia. This small territory abounds with olive-trees,
which produce a considerable quantity of oil, counted the best of
the whole Riviera. Albenga is a small town, the see of a bishop,
suffragan to the archbishop of Genoa. It lies upon the sea, and
the country produces a great quantity of hemp. Finale is the
capital of a marquisate belonging to the Genoese, which has been
the source of much trouble to the republic; and indeed was the
sole cause of their rupture with the king of Sardinia and the
house of Austria in the year 1745. The town is pretty well built;
but the harbour is shallow, open, and unsafe; nevertheless, they
built a good number of tartans and other vessels on the beach and
the neighbouring country abounds with oil and fruit, particularly
with those excellent apples called pomi carli, which I have
mentioned in a former letter.
In the evening we reached the Capo di Noli, counted very
dangerous in blowing weather. It is a very high perpendicular
rock or mountain washed by the sea, which has eaten into it in
divers places, so as to form a great number of caverns. It
extends about a couple of miles, and in some parts is indented
into little creeks or bays, where there is a narrow margin of
sandy beach between it and the water. When the wind is high, no
feluca will attempt to pass it; even in a moderate breeze, the
waves dashing against the rocks and caverns, which echo with the
sound, make such an awful noise, and at the same time occasion
such a rough sea, as one cannot hear, and see, and feel, without
a secret horror.
On this side of the Cape, there is a beautiful strand cultivated
like a garden; the plantations extend to the very tops of the
hills, interspersed with villages, castles, churches, and villas.
Indeed the whole Riviera is ornamented in the same manner, except
in such places as admit of no building nor cultivation.
Having passed the Cape, we followed the winding of the coast,
into a small bay, and arrived at the town of Noli, where we
proposed to pass the night. You will be surprised that we did not
go ashore sooner, in order to take some refreshment; but the
truth is, we had a provision of ham, tongues, roasted pullets,
cheese, bread, wine, and fruit, in the feluca, where we every day
enjoyed a slight repast about one or two o'clock in the
afternoon. This I mention as a necessary piece of information to
those who may be inclined to follow the same route. We likewise
found it convenient to lay in store of l'eau de vie, or brandy,
for the use of the rowers, who always expect to share your
comforts. On a meagre day, however, those ragamuffins will
rather die of hunger than suffer the least morsel of flesh-meat
to enter their mouths. I have frequently tried the experiment, by
pressing them to eat something gras, on a Friday or Saturday: but
they always declined it with marks of abhorrence, crying, Dio me
ne libere! God deliver me from it! or some other words to that
effect. I moreover observed, that not one of those fellows ever
swore an oath, or spoke an indecent word. They would by no means
put to sea, of a morning, before they had heard mass; and when
the wind was unfavourable, they always set out with a hymn to the
Blessed Virgin, or St. Elmo, keeping time with their oars as they
sung. I have indeed remarked all over this country, that a man
who transgresses the institutions of the church in these small
matters, is much more infamous than one who has committed the
most flagrant crimes against nature and morality. A murderer,
adulterer, or s - m - te, will obtain easy absolution from the
church, and even find favour with society; but a man who eats a
pidgeon on a Saturday, without express licence, is avoided and
abhorred, as a monster of reprobation.
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