I Mention These
Circumstances To Give You An Idea Of The Imposition To Which
Strangers Are Subject In This Country.
It must be owned, however,
that in the article of eating, I might save half the money by
going to the public ordinary; but this is a scheme of oeconomy,
which (exclusive of other disagreeable circumstances) neither my
own health, nor that of my wife permits me to embrace.
My journey
from Paris to Lyons, including the hire of the coach, and all
expences on the road, has cost me, within a few shillings, forty
loui'dores. From Paris our baggage (though not plombe) was not
once examined till we arrived in this city, at the gate of which
we were questioned by one of the searchers, who, being tipt with
half a crown, allowed us to proceed without further enquiry,
I purposed to stay in Lyons until I should receive some letters I
expected from London, to be forwarded by my banker at Paris: but
the enormous expence of living in this manner has determined me
to set out in a day or two for Montpellier, although that place
is a good way out of the road to Nice. My reasons for taking that
route I shall communicate in my next. Mean-while, I am ever, -
Dear Sir, Your affectionate and obliged humble servant.
LETTER IX
MONTPELLIER, November 5, 1763.
DEAR SIR, - The city of Lyons has been so often and so
circumstantially described, that I cannot pretend to say any
thing new on the subject. Indeed, I know very little of it, but
what I have read in books; as I had but one day to make a tour of
the streets, squares, and other remarkable places. The bridge
over the Rhone seems to be so slightly built, that I should
imagine it would be one day carried away by that rapid river;
especially as the arches are so small, that, after great rains
they are sometimes bouchees, or stopped up; that is, they do not
admit a sufficient passage for the encreased body of the water.
In order to remedy this dangerous defect, in some measure, they
found an artist some years ago, who has removed a middle pier,
and thrown two arches into one. This alteration they looked upon
as a masterpiece in architecture, though there is many a common
mason in England, who would have undertaken and performed the
work, without valuing himself much upon the enterprize. This
bridge, as well as that of St. Esprit, is built, not in a strait
line across the river, but with a curve, which forms a convexity
to oppose the current. Such a bend is certainly calculated for
the better resisting the general impetuosity of the stream, and
has no bad effect to the eye.
Lyons is a great, populous, and flourishing city but I am
surprised to find it is counted a healthy place, and that the air
of it is esteemed favourable to pulmonic disorders. It is
situated on the confluence of two large rivers, from which there
must be a great evaporation, as well as from the low marshy
grounds, which these rivers often overflow.
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