Another Way Of Travelling In This Country Is To Hire A Coach And
Four Horses; And This Method I Was Inclined To Take:
But when I
went to the bureau, where alone these voitures are to be had, I
was given to understand, that it would cost me six-and-twenty
guineas, and travel so slow that I should be ten days upon the
road.
These carriages are let by the same persons who farm the
diligence; and for this they have an exclusive privilege, which
makes them very saucy and insolent. When I mentioned my servant,
they gave me to understand, that I must pay two loui'dores more
for his seat upon the coach box. As I could not relish these
terms, nor brook the thoughts of being so long upon the road, I
had recourse to the third method, which is going post.
In England you know I should have had nothing to do, but to hire
a couple of post-chaises from stage to stage, with two horses in
each; but here the case is quite otherwise. The post is farmed
from the king, who lays travellers under contribution for his own
benefit, and has published a set of oppressive ordonnances, which
no stranger nor native dares transgress. The postmaster finds
nothing but horses and guides: the carriage you yourself must
provide. If there are four persons within the carriage, you are
obliged to have six horses, and two postillions; and if your
servant sits on the outside, either before or behind, you must
pay for a seventh. You pay double for the first stage from Paris,
and twice double for passing through Fontainbleau when the court
is there, as well as at coming to Lyons, and at leaving this
city. These are called royal posts, and are undoubtedly a
scandalous imposition.
There are two post roads from Paris to Lyons, one of sixty-five
posts, by the way of Moulins; the other of fifty-nine, by the way
of Dijon in Burgundy. This last I chose, partly to save sixty
livres, and partly to see the wine harvest of Burgundy, which, I
was told, was a season of mirth and jollity among all ranks of
people. I hired a very good coach for ten loui'dores to Lyons,
and set out from Paris on the thirteenth instant, with six
horses, two postillions, and my own servant on horseback. We made
no stop at Fontainbleau, though the court was there; but lay at
Moret, which is one stage further, a very paltry little town
where, however, we found good accommodation.
I shall not pretend to describe the castle or palace of
Fontainbleau, of which I had only a glimpse in passing; but the
forest, in the middle of which it stands, is a noble chace of
great extent, beautifully wild and romantic, well stored with
game of all sorts, and abounding with excellent timber. It put me
in mind of the New Forest in Hampshire; but the hills, rocks, and
mountains, with which it is diversified, render it more
agreeable.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 85 of 276
Words from 43674 to 44185
of 143308
