I Shall Now Take Notice Of The Vegetables Of Nice.
In the winter,
we have green pease, asparagus, artichoaks, cauliflower, beans,
French beans, celery, and endive; cabbage, coleworts, radishes,
turnips, carrots, betteraves, sorrel lettuce, onions, garlic, and
chalot.
We have potatoes from the mountains, mushrooms,
champignons, and truffles. Piedmont affords white truffles,
counted the most delicious in the world: they sell for about
three livres the pound. The fruits of this season are pickled
olives, oranges, lemons, citrons, citronelles, dried figs,
grapes, apples, pears, almonds, chestnuts, walnuts, filberts,
medlars, pomegranates, and a fruit called azerolles, [The
Italians call them Lazerruoli.] about the size of a nutmeg, of an
oblong shape, red colour, and agreeable acid taste. I might
likewise add the cherry of the Laurus cerasus, which is sold in
the market; very beautiful to the eye, but insipid to the palate.
In summer we have all those vegetables in perfection. There is
also a kind of small courge, or gourd, of which the people of the
country make a very savoury ragout, with the help of eggs,
cheese, and fresh anchovies. Another is made of the badenjean,
which the Spaniards call berengena: [This fruit is called
Melanzana in Italy and is much esteemed by the Jews in Leghorn.
Perhaps Melanzana is a corruption of Malamsana.] it is much eaten
in Spain and the Levant, as well as by the Moors in Barbary. It
is about the size and shape of a hen's egg, inclosed in a cup
like an acorn; when ripe, of a faint purple colour. It grows on a
stalk about a foot high, with long spines or prickles. The people
here have different ways of slicing and dressing it, by broiling,
boiling, and stewing, with other ingredients: but it is at best
an insipid dish. There are some caperbushes in this
neighbourhood, which grow wild in holes of garden walls, and
require no sort of cultivation: in one or two gardens, there are
palm-trees; but the dates never ripen. In my register of the
weather, I have marked the seasons of the principal fruits in
this country. In May we have strawberries, which continue in
season two or three months. These are of the wood kind; very
grateful, and of a good flavour; but the scarlets and hautboys
are not known at Nice. In the beginning of June, and even sooner,
the cherries begin to be ripe. They are a kind of bleeding
hearts; large, fleshy, and high flavoured, though rather too
luscious. I have likewise seen a few of those we call Kentish
cherries which are much more cool, acid, and agreeable,
especially in this hot climate. The cherries are succeeded by the
apricots and peaches, which are all standards, and of consequence
better flavoured than what we call wall-fruit. The trees, as well
as almonds, grow and bear without care and cultivation, and may
be seen in the open fields about Nice. but without proper
culture, the fruit degenerates. The best peaches I have seen at
Nice are the amberges, of a yellow hue, and oblong shape, about
the size of a small lemon. Their consistence is much more solid
than that of our English peaches, and their taste more delicious.
Several trees of this kind I have in my own garden. Here is
likewise plenty of other sorts; but no nectarines. We have little
choice of plumbs. Neither do I admire the pears or apples of this
country: but the most agreeable apples I ever tasted, come from
Final, and are called pomi carli. The greatest fault I find with
most fruits in this climate, is, that they are too sweet and
luscious, and want that agreeable acid which is so cooling and so
grateful in a hot country. This, too, is the case with our
grapes, of which there is great plenty and variety, plump and
juicy, and large as plumbs. Nature, however, has not neglected to
provide other agreeable vegetable juices to cool the human body.
During the whole summer, we have plenty of musk melons. I can buy
one as large as my head for the value of an English penny: but
one of the best and largest, weighing ten or twelve pounds, I can
have for twelve sols, or about eight-pence sterling. From Antibes
and Sardinia, we have another fruit called a watermelon, which is
well known in Jamaica, and some of our other colonies. Those from
Antibes are about the size of an ordinary bomb-shell: but the
Sardinian and Jamaica watermelons are four times as large. The
skin is green, smooth, and thin. The inside is a purple pulp,
studded with broad, flat, black seeds, and impregnated with a
juice the most cool, delicate, and refreshing, that can well be
conceived. One would imagine the pulp itself dissolved in the
stomach; for you may eat of it until you are filled up
to the tongue, without feeling the least inconvenience. It is so
friendly to the constitution, that in ardent inflammatory fevers,
it is drank as the best emulsion. At Genoa, Florence, and Rome,
it is sold in the streets, ready cut in slices; and the porters,
sweating under their burthens, buy, and eat them as they pass. A
porter of London quenches his thirst with a draught of strong
beer: a porter of Rome, or Naples, refreshes himself with a slice
of water-melon, or a glass of iced-water. The one costs three
half-pence; the last, half a farthing - which of them is most
effectual? I am sure the men are equally pleased. It is commonly
remarked, that beer strengthens as well as refreshes. But the
porters of Constantinople, who never drink any thing stronger
than water, and eat very little animal food, will lift and carry
heavier burthens than any other porters in the known world. If we
may believe the most respectable travellers, a Turk will carry a
load of seven hundred weight, which is more (I believe) than any
English porter ever attempted to carry any length of way.
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