Perhaps I May Be More Particular On This
Subject In A Subsequent Letter.
In the mean time, I am ever, -
Dear Sir, Yours sincerely.
LETTER XII
NICE, December 6, 1763.
DEAR SIR, - The inhabitants of Montpellier are sociable, gay, and
good-tempered. They have a spirit of commerce, and have erected
several considerable manufactures, in the neighbourhood of the
city. People assemble every day to take the air on the esplanade,
where there is a very good walk, just without the gate of the
citadel: but, on the other side of the town, there is another
still more agreeable, called the peirou, from whence there is a
prospect of the Mediterranean on one side, and of the Cevennes on
the other. Here is a good equestrian statue of Louis XIV,
fronting one gate of the city, which is built in form of a
triumphal arch, in honour of the same monarch. Immediately under
the pierou is the physic garden, and near it an arcade just
finished for an aqueduct, to convey a stream of water to the
upper parts of the city. Perhaps I should have thought this a
neat piece of work, if I had not seen the Pont du Garde: but,
after having viewed the Roman arches, I could not look upon this
but with pity and contempt. It is a wonder how the architect
could be so fantastically modern, having such a noble model, as
it were, before his eyes.
There are many protestants at this place, as well as at Nismes,
and they are no longer molested on the score of religion. They
have their conventicles in the country, where they assemble
privately for worship. These are well known; and detachments are
sent out every Sunday to intercept them; but the officer has
always private directions to take another route. Whether this
indulgence comes from the wisdom and lenity of the government, or
is purchased with money of the commanding officer, I cannot
determine: but certain it is, the laws of France punish capitally
every protestant minister convicted of having performed the
functions of his ministry in this kingdom; and one was hanged
about two years ago, in the neighbourhood of Montauban.
The markets in Montpellier are well supplied with fish, poultry,
butcher's meat, and game, at reasonable rates. The wine of the
country is strong and harsh, and never drank, but when mixed with
water. Burgundy is dear, and so is the sweet wine of Frontignan,
though made in the neighbourhood of Cette. You know it is famous
all over Europe, and so are the liqueurs, or drams of various
sorts, compounded and distilled at Montpellier. Cette is the sea-port,
about four leagues from that city: but the canal of
Languedoc comes up within a mile of it; and is indeed a great
curiosity: a work in all respects worthy of a Colbert, under
whose auspices it was finished. When I find such a general
tribute of respect and veneration paid to the memory of that
great man, I am astonished to see so few monuments of public
utility left by other ministers. One would imagine, that even the
desire of praise would prompt a much greater number to exert
themselves for the glory and advantage of their country; yet in
my opinion, the French have been ungrateful to Colbert, in the
same proportion as they have over-rated the character of his
master. Through all France one meets with statues and triumphal
arches erected to Louis XIV, in consequence of his victories; by
which, likewise, he acquired the title of Louis le Grand. But how
were those victories obtained? Not by any personal merit of
Louis. It was Colbert who improved his finances, and enabled him
to pay his army. It was Louvois that provided all the necessaries
of war. It was a Conde, a Turenne, a Luxemburg, a Vendome, who
fought his battles; and his first conquests, for which he was
deified by the pen of adulation, were obtained almost without
bloodshed, over weak, dispirited, divided, and defenceless
nations. It was Colbert that improved the marine, instituted
manufactures, encouraged commerce, undertook works of public
utility, and patronized the arts and sciences. But Louis (you
will say) had the merit of choosing and supporting those
ministers, and those generals. I answer, no. He found Colbert and
Louvois already chosen: he found Conde and Turenne in the very
zenith of military reputation. Luxemburg was Conde's pupil; and
Vendome, a prince of the blood, who at first obtained the command
of armies in consequence of his high birth, and happened to turn
out a man of genius. The same Louis had the sagacity to revoke
the edict of Nantz; to entrust his armies to a Tallard, a
Villeroy, and a Marsin. He had the humanity to ravage the
country, burn the towns, and massacre the people of the
Palatinate. He had the patriotism to impoverish and depopulate
his own kingdom, in order to prosecute schemes of the most
lawless ambition. He had the Consolation to beg a peace from
those he had provoked to war by the most outrageous insolence;
and he had the glory to espouse Mrs. Maintenon in her old age,
the widow of the buffoon Scarron. Without all doubt, it was from
irony he acquired the title le Grand.
Having received a favourable answer from Mr. B - , the English
consul at Nice, and recommended the care of my heavy baggage to
Mr. Ray, who undertook to send it by sea from Cette to
Villefranche, I hired a coach and mules for seven loui'dores, and
set out from Montpellier on the 13th of November, the weather
being agreeable, though the air was cold and frosty. In other
respects there were no signs of winter: the olives were now ripe,
and appeared on each side of the road as black as sloes; and the
corn was already half a foot high. On the second day of our
journey, we passed the Rhone on a bridge of boats at Buccaire,
and lay on the other side at Tarrascone.
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